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Suggestions on watch for a noob

1K views 19 replies 19 participants last post by  niklasal 
#1 ·
Hello all! New here but looking for advice/opinions on getting a new watch. I've collected firearms/knives for a long time so I understand there are preferences on style, use, and definitely price of course, but I'm a bit picky,so hopefully someone could steer me in the right direction.

First off, and easiest, my budget is pretty flexible. It's mainly the style and quality I need advice on. The past two watches I've gotten have been Fossil, $80 watches, but looking to finally get a "real" watch. Here are the main things I'm looking for:

1. Not a fan of MASSIVE watches. 42mm case is about my limit. I do have large hands/wrists, but 39-42 would be ideal.

2. I would like it to hold up to wear very well. I don't do gardening or heavy labor in my gear, but nice enough to go out to dinner with the woman and wear daily use without losing finish on the edges so quickly like my black fossils.

3. I have two categories of watches I plan to get... A few sub $500 watches, and eventually a couple $1,000-$4,000 watches. I like the look of the Citizens and Seikos in the sub $500, but not sure about quality of either and no idea on the $1,000-3,000 watch. Opinions on both?

I Just bought one of those Seiko Sarb017's, and I love the look. But I just got it today so no idea on long term. I know there are so many more options, but was hoping someone would have some recommendations to start looking at. Thoughts?
 
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#3 ·
What style of watch do you like? I'd say get a pilot and a diver. I like Hamilton a lot in the $500 range. Omega and Tudor are favorites in your upper end range.
 
#4 ·
The first thing you need to decide is do you have to have an automatic (self winding mechanical) watch or does it not matter to you whether it is automatic or quartz (with a battery)? Then, are you open to "homages"(meaning watches that look a lot like a more expensive, famous watch) or do you want to stick with something with a more original, fresh design? Then, are you willing to buy a used watch which will be a better value for your money (if you choose wisely and carefully) or do you have to have a new watch? Then, what "complications" do you favor like "moonphase", "GMT" (which keeps track of two or more timezones) or "chronograph" (think built in stopwatch). You really cannot go wrong with Seiko or Citizen, they are fine watches at all of their various price-points. Check out watchrecon.com and get a feel for the used market and use the site to get ideas on what you like....Good luck!
 
#5 ·
I don't want to confuse you, but one option you haven't mentioned is to save up to purchase a couple of really nice watches. Maybe buy one watch for $1,500 and one in the $5-$8k range. If you make the right purchases, you can actually have some resale value, i.e., I can sell my Submariner, Aerospace and Seamaster for more than I bought them for. Rolex has price increases every year, which is why their resale is so good.
 
#6 ·
Since wear-and-tear is a concern, you definitely should avoid any and all black-cased, or gold-tone watches. DLC is reportedly a more durable way of coating than the basic method, but it's still not scratchproof.

There are some watches that have especially hardened cases (e.g. Damasko watches), they should be pretty much as resilient as you're gonna get in this decade. Damaskos are exactly in the 1000-3000 pricerange, so, perhaps look into them.

Otherwise, stick with L316 stainless steel (most cases are made of this). Don't go for titanium, it shows marks really fast. Brushed surfaces are best at simply not showing scratches as obviously. Bead-blasted is about the same as polished in terms of making scrapes show, so imo no point in choosing one over the other. Best thing would be a mix of finishes, so that you get a nicer overall look without a uniform surface expectation. That way, scratches - when they do show up - don't disrupt the aesthetic as much.

Sapphire crystal is a must, esp. in the priceranges you are looking at.

In general terms.. for the 500-ish pricepoint, japanese watches might be your best bet. Seiko, citizen, orient - all very safe (reliable) brands, as long as you like the looks. For the higher-price point (1000-3000), you probably would get better value from German brands (Damasko, Sinn, Nomos, Stowa, Limes, etc.), but Swiss are also an option (Oris is a really good non-swatch-conglomerate swiss brand - perhaps check out the Oris Divers 65, it's a pretty highly regarded, recently released model).
 
#7 ·
Since wear-and-tear is a concern, you definitely should avoid any and all black-cased, or gold-tone watches. DLC is reportedly a more durable way of coating than the basic method, but it's still not scratchproof.

There are some watches that have especially hardened cases (e.g. Damasko watches), they should be pretty much as resilient as you're gonna get in this decade. Damaskos are exactly in the 1000-3000 pricerange, so, perhaps look into them.

Otherwise, stick with L316 stainless steel (most cases are made of this). Don't go for titanium, it shows marks really fast. Brushed surfaces are best at simply not showing scratches as obviously. Bead-blasted is about the same as polished in terms of making scrapes show, so imo no point in choosing one over the other. Best thing would be a mix of finishes, so that you get a nicer overall look without a uniform surface expectation. That way, scratches - when they do show up - don't disrupt the aesthetic as much.

Sapphire crystal is a must, esp. in the priceranges you are looking at.

In general terms.. for the 500-ish pricepoint, japanese watches might be your best bet. Seiko, citizen, orient - all very safe (reliable) brands, as long as you like the looks. For the higher-price point (1000-3000), you probably would get better value from German brands (Damasko, Sinn, Nomos, Stowa, Limes, etc.), but Swiss are also an option (Oris is a really good non-swatch-conglomerate swiss brand - perhaps check out the Oris Divers 65, it's a pretty highly regarded, recently released model).
^^ full agree to this.

Look at the entry level Swiss brands like Hamilton, Certina, Tissot and Victorinox, too. If you need inspiration for the sub $500 category, have a look at the affordable watches sub-forum, particularly at the daily "what R U wearing" (WRUW) threads to get some ideas. If you find something you like, compile a short list and ask the forum for advice on the selection.

But most of all: buy something that speaks to you and have fun! :-! Welcome to the show! ;-)
 
#12 ·
Seiko has a SLEW of quality affordables under $500.

Seiko 5 line -- from dress to sport, there are literally hundreds of variations, all between $50-$200.

Seiko divers -- the SKX007, SKX009 are staggeringly popular, as is the Sumo (close to $500 for that one); the "Turtles" and the "Monsters" are also very popular, as are the "Tunas". Seiko makes a very top shelf diver also, the Master Marine I think it's called, but it's in the low thousands.

Seiko SARBs -- sounds like you already know about those. They are all below $500 too, I believe.

Then of course the are the Grand Seikos, every bit as nice as a Rolex or Omega or PP, but priced a bit lower, sometimes quite a bit lower.

(I'm just a bit biased toward Seiko)
 
#14 ·
If you are just looking for one watch for life. A Rolex Datejust is just what you need.

I wore my Datejust as a daily beater for more than 6 years and it is still in my collection after more than a decade. My wife now wears it daily to work.

A Datejust with smooth bezel and oyster bracelet is the perfect life companion. A preowned 16200 which is well maintained is around $4,000 or slightly less.
 
#15 ·
Looking for a dress watch under $500? Check out the Tissot Visodate!
 
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