Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase
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  1. #1
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    Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase

    List,

    I am looking to purchase my first "nice" men's wristwatch. I work in the meteorological industry, so the GMT complication is very useful to me. I would like to stay under $2500 USD for the price, so very good+ used condition is acceptable.

    Preferences:

    1) high quality. I want the best quality timepiece I can find. I would like it to be a sort of "heirloom" gift for my 9 yr old son someday.

    2) high contrast between the watch face . So I am thinking a black background is best, although white (if there is good contrast between the face and the hands/markers) is fine too.

    3) a mechanical automatic wound movement. This would be my first choice by far. If not quartz would be ok if the cost/quality ratio is overwhelmingly better.

    4) a display back (if it has a mechanical movement of course). Having such a beautiful piece of engineering I would like to see it working :)

    5) a very "clean" face. Size-wise around 40mm. Examples of styles I like are:

    Grand Seiko GMT (spring drive or no),
    Seiko Alpinist GMT,
    nomos zurich datum (if it only had GMT!),
    armand nicolet M02 day/date (again if only GMT),
    longines Conquest auto GMT

    I don't care much for Rolex (although the Explorer II is ok but way expensive), nor for the Omega Seamaster or breitling GMTs (dial too cluttered).

    Any advice from the list would be most appreciated. As I mentioned I would like to basically find a GMT, auto movement with display back if I can. If not perhaps (in another thread) I can ask for your help in choosing a similar piece sans the GMT function. Thank you.

  2. #2
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    Re: Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase

    Try Oris Artelier GMT:

  3. #3
    Member Perdendosi's Avatar
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    Re: Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase

    Man, that GS looks awfully nice. I hear nothing but good things about them. Thought that GS probably isn't considered an "heirloom" among many WIS (though some people would say any watch under $5k or even $10K isn't), what would make it an heirloom is that you'd wear it for a number of years and then give it to your son.

    You can also get an Omega Seamaster GMT for about $2500 (gray or used), or a Seamaster Bond for that same range (used).

    The Seamaster GMT's bezel is a little obnoxious to me, and it doesn't have an exhibition caseback:




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  5. #4
    Member mpalmer's Avatar
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    Re: Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase

    You could take a look at the Sinn U2. Tegimented submarine steel...
    "The stuff that dreams are made of…" - RGM ‘801 EE Motor Barrel’

  6. #5
    Member sheon's Avatar
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    Re: Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase

    Here's a thread on GMT watches I found useful:

    https://forums.watchuseek.com/f2/need...-793181-2.html

    Lots of eye-candy too!
    'I reach for my watch from the bedside table and consider the dial - its rectitude, its innocence - then I understand the position of the hands and that, yes, rush-hour traffic will already have begun.' - Deborah Eisenberg, The Flaw in the Design

  7. #6
    Ball Watch, Bremont and Longines moderator samanator's Avatar
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    Re: Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase

    There are about a half dozen Ball watches that cover everything from dress, casual, aviator, diver....Longines also has quite a few. Any particular style your looking for?
    Michael
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  8. #7
    Member dbakiva's Avatar
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    Re: Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase

    Quote Originally Posted by Perdendosi View Post
    ... You can also get an Omega Seamaster GMT for about $2500 (gray or used), or a Seamaster Bond for that same range (used).

    The Seamaster GMT's bezel is a little obnoxious to me, and it doesn't have an exhibition caseback ....

    The Seamaster GMT was also available with white face and a silver colored bezel (The "Great White"). It is very readable, and I like the look of this one better. No exhibition back, but a great watch. Used, they run about $1500 - $2000.

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  9. #8
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    Re: Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase

    I am always impressed with the legibility of my Ball Fireman 43


    As for the GMT, there are a variety of subtleties depending on use. Do you need to track actual GMT? Or various time zones? You mention meteorology - is sidereal time a concern? Would "equation of time" actually be of more use to you?

    The budget of $2500 is interesting - on the one hand, it's a real sweet spot with a lot of options for some really well built, NICE watches. On the other hand, it's just a little too little for something really special with complications you may find valuable considering your line of work (moon phase, EOT, etc)

  10. #9
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    Re: Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase

    Quote Originally Posted by Perdendosi View Post
    ...Thought that GS probably isn't considered an "heirloom" among many WIS (though some people would say any watch under $5k or even $10K isn't), what would make it an heirloom is that you'd wear it for a number of years and then give it to your son.
    Sorry, I just have to address this really quickly- anybody who would reject a watch from heirloom status based solely on it's MSRP isn't a "WIS"... They are an "incredible tool". Of all the ways one could assess a watch's qualifications for that, simple cost is the most asinine.

    To the OP... Do you require a traveler's GMT or "true" GMT, where the 12 hour hand is capable of being quickset to whatever the local time happens to be, while the 24 hour hand remains set to home? Or a watch where the 24 hour hand is independent? This is something to consider. Most automatic GMT's will be using some iteration of an ETA 2893-2, which is not a traveler's GMT, but a movement that lets you track a second time zone via setting the 24 hour hand. In terms of a traveler's GMT, the options shrink a bit. The gold standard for true GMT movements is Rolex, they invented the concept... If you like the Explorer II, then I'd almost suggest you hold out a bit, try to put another grand together, and wait for a deal on a nice used one. I know you dislike the Omega, but their GMT is also one of the few true GMT's out there... In fact, in terms of a mechanical watch, the Omega may be the best deal going on a true GMT, and is definitely attainable at your budget...
    Last edited by starter; March 30th, 2013 at 07:34.
    ScottT likes this.

  11. #10
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    Re: Upgrading - advice on men's GMT auto purchase

    While I x2 Starter's entire post, especially the first sentence, I would clarify that what he is calling "true" or "travel" GMT watches have a major downside - they absolutely can not handle partial hour (like the 1/2 hr India and Newfoundland) timezones.

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