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  1. #41
    Member vkalia's Avatar
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    Re: A working theory - building a collection with a vision

    Gorgeous! That one has been on my list as well....
    Core: ALS 1815 Up/Down, AP RO, Breguet Marine, Blancpain FF MilSpec, JLC Master Geo, GO Panomatic, Rolex BLRO, Panerai 688, Rolex Exp2 polar, Cartier Santos XL ADLC, Zenith El Primero tricolor, [Empty Slot]
    Secondary: Oris Brashear chrono, Oris 65/42 green, Oris 65/40mm, Oris 65 bronze, Rado Capt Cook LE, Seiko Prospex Padi, Doxa 1200T Pro
    Others
    :Tissot T-Touch Expert, Swatch S51, Seagull 1963, Sturmanskie Yuri Gagarin, Fortis Marine Master, G-Shock GMW-B500
    FS: Seiko Orange Monster Gen2, Gruppo Gamma Vanguard, Squale Milsub
    Gone: Tudor Chrono Heritage, Hamilton Khaki Field, B&R03-92, Seiko SKX007, Orient Sun&Moon, Seagull M172S, Rado Vintage Diver, Hamilton Pan Europ, Orient Mako, Meistersinger Pangaea, IWC Aquatimer, PAM 24, JR Aquascope, Tudor BB Black, Longines Legend Diver, PAM 241, Bernhardt Anchor3, WUS GMT watch, Damasko DB2, Helson Shark Diver, Seiko 5, Ventus Mori Brass, Glycine Airman, Eterna Kon-Tiki, Zelos Gallant, Sinn 103 A sa B, Oris 65/42 blue

  2. #42
    Member falcon4311's Avatar
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    Re: A working theory - building a collection with a vision

    Quote Originally Posted by Metlin View Post
    Terrific collection. I absolutely love the fact that you have the discipline to pursue a longer-term vision for your collection. I would say that the Nomos and Omega are my favorites of the lot.

    My personal challenge has been that there are no (new) watches that I absolutely crave, so I just buy whatever watch catches my attention. At this point, I am just having fun with my collection, so there isn't a whole lot of structure. My previous three watches have all been impulse buys, and one of them was a dare on WUS for crying out loud.

    That said, four observations on your collection. One, I couldn't help notice lack of both digitals and quartz watches. You have one manual and several automatics, but not even a Spring Drive? Two, no chronographs? The latter surprised me more than the former, I must admit.

    Three, nothing with a brown strap? And finally, steak looks well done. I sincerely hope it's tuna instead.
    Tuna is far better rare.
    MZhammer likes this.

  3. #43
    Member Metlin's Avatar
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    Re: A working theory - building a collection with a vision

    Quote Originally Posted by falcon4311 View Post
    Tuna is far better rare.
    Let's not get too carried away.

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  5. #44
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    Re: A working theory - building a collection with a vision

    I did not google search each and every one of your collection but I think there are some flaws in your theory. In that there is no quartz in your collection (perhaps one is appropriate as part of your dress collection, assuming this is a watch worn less frequently and you do not want to fuss with setting the clock each time you wear and want some of the attributes of quartz beyond accuracy such as a more slim profile). And there is no digital or pure sports type watch mention (G-Shock or similar) which could fit into the causal slot. Other than that, I support your effort to trim the collection.

  6. #45
    Member MZhammer's Avatar
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    Re: A working theory - building a collection with a vision

    Quote Originally Posted by coffeewatch View Post
    I did not google search each and every one of your collection but I think there are some flaws in your theory. In that there is no quartz in your collection (perhaps one is appropriate as part of your dress collection, assuming this is a watch worn less frequently and you do not want to fuss with setting the clock each time you wear and want some of the attributes of quartz beyond accuracy such as a more slim profile). And there is no digital or pure sports type watch mention (G-Shock or similar) which could fit into the causal slot. Other than that, I support your effort to trim the collection.
    You're not wrong that my core 6 don't address either of these but it was discussed elsewhere in the thread! I've got both covered enough for my personal preferences :)

    Here is a quick SOTC as it is beginning to shape up.
    Left side is Dress, middle left is Casual, middle right is Sport and far right are my two wildcard spots currently filled by the Omega Railmaster and IWC 3706. (Obviously excluded are the quartz, G shock and sentimental watches)

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    Last edited by MZhammer; May 21st, 2017 at 23:03.
    Current Rotation:
    6 Keepers, 2 Rotators
    and a few guilty pleasures...

    Dress Watches Casual Watches Sport Watches Rotators
    High A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chrono Rolex GMT Master II 16710 Breguet Classique Chronograph 3237
    Low Cartier Tank Basculante Heuer Carrera 1964 Re-Edition CS3111 Longines Legend Diver no-date Ralph Lauren Slim 867 White Gold

    Instagram @mzhammer_wis

  7. #46
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    Re: A working theory - building a collection with a vision

    Okay, I am more happy with your working theory. I do think your approach has a logical foundation, assuming you wear watches in the three main categories relatively equally. You have a nice collection and depending on how you define the categories you could move the first wildcard watch (Omega) one or two slots to the left, and move the 2nd wildcard (IWC chrono) a slot or two to the left as well. Giving you two more wildcards if you chose to use them!

  8. #47
    Member MZhammer's Avatar
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    Off Topic post Re: A working theory - building a collection with a vision

    I've decided I'm going to use this thread as an ongoing catalog of my journey to 6 core watches.

    Since my last post there have been a few additions, a few departures, and some crisis of faith.

    First off, I've continued to refine my theory - while I still strongly believe that 6 "keepers" is the right balance for my collection, I have decided to put even further restrictions on what can become a "Keeper." I already had the 2, 2, 2 methodology but I want to make sure that, within category, each watch brings a different wearing experience so that they don't compete but compliment each other. Case in point is my dress watch category - I have a circular, heavy, yellow gold Lange with Arabic numerals and flat dial but the compliment is a rectangular, stainless steel, light weight Cartier Tank with Roman numerals and guilloche dial. They offer me totally different wearing experiences so I don't fall into the trap of neglecting one in favor of the other. I'd like to replicate this across the other 2 categories as much as possible.

    Additionally, I want to limit myself to "icons" from the watchmaking world. Why would I do this? Well, after some introspection, I came to the conclusion that what I love most about watches are when they become part of a person's brand identity. When your father was remembered as always wearing his old Sub, or your grandfather who always had the same beat-up Seiko on his wrist. It's corny, but I like when watches age with the owner rather than buying someone else's patina. I've owned watches that have aged (IMO) very poorly and with these core 6 watches I want to ensure that I won't wake up in ten years and see a dated design staring back at me. Limiting myself to watches that have, more or less, already become icons will lower the likelihood of that. While its possible to someday wake up and hate the Rolex GMT Master, it will still be an iconic model.

    New Methodology (New Rules are Underlined)

    • 2 watches for each category - Dress, Casual, and Sport for a total of 6 core collection. I wear all 3 types with regularity so they are all a necessity (as much as any luxury item is a necessity...).
    • 3 light color faces, 3 dark color faces.
    • Each watch must be considered iconic and classic design (or as close to it as possible) to help them age gracefully and be perennially beautiful.
    • In each category, the two watches must present different wearing experiences (subjective, yes, but I'm the judge, jury and executioner here) to offer as much versatility as possible.
    • In each category, I will have one "High" and one "Low" model for maximum flexibility of wearing. Really all mechanical watches are high end but I'd like to have a slightly more affordable option and a slightly more upscale option in each bucket when necessary.
    • I will *attempt* to limit the representation of each brand to a maximum of one watch.
    • I will *attempt* to limit specific complications to be represented once in the collection.
    • I'm allowed 2 Rotators that will follow the 1-in-1-out rule (I have a wandering eye and I need an outlet). The rotators do not need to conform to any of the above restrictions, they're just passing fancies.

    Departures
    It was with a heavy heart that I said goodbye to my Omega Railmaster. While I loved the model, I found it not winning out for wrist time against my other "Sport" model in the GMT Master II. I kept going back to the well with the GMT when it came time for a watch with WR and that means it doesn't have a place in the final lineup. It was a rotator anyways, but it's always hard to let go to such a hard to find model. I also was unsure what the LE Railmaster from Basel would do for pre-owned prices of the 2500 so I figured better to cut bait now rather than risk the market falling out...

    Arrivals
    Shortly after letting the Railmaster go, I was contemplating my High End casual watch. I've always loved Panerai from a design perspective but I could never get comfortable with the huge cases sizes on my 7" wrist. Enter the PAM 512. It has a wearable, 42mm size and classic, simple Panerai design DNA without complications. It was good timing as the sale of the Railmaster made the Panerai a much easier acquisition and something I didn't have to fret much about it. Am I liking it? Hell yea I am but, it's still the honeymoon phase. Only time will tell if it can be a keeper or will rotate out like its predecessor.

    Confession time - I'd never owned a Speedmaster. I have owned Seamasters, Railmaster but never Speedmasters. I'd tried on the classic moon watch and the 42mm case always seemed clunky to me, I loved the look in pictures but in the metal they just left me wanting. Perhaps I've been indoctrinated by this forum and all the watch personalities saying you must own a speedy at some point but, when I came across the Omega FOIS (very late to the game I might add) I really liked the looks. The Alpha hands, straight lugs and symmetrical case all spoke to the vintage lover in me and the sapphire crystal and modern build quality spoke to the pragmatist. I'd been keeping my eye open for one and, low and behold, an AD purchase full set fell into my lap at a price which I knew I wouldn't take a bath if I have to flip it.
    A Speedy just makes so much sense in my framework as a Low Casual watch (the WR makes it impractical as a sport watch, I ain't going to the moon). It has some of the best history around, it's about as classic as a model gets, and the FOIS model puts a tweak on the watch that I really like. On a strap or the $12 Speidel Twist-o-Flex it's been a lot of fun to wear. While I didn't fall in love at first sight, it has been consistently growing on me and the weight of it feels really solid for a ~$3.5K used watch, for the same dollar I don't know what better casual watch icon I could get into.

    Crisis of Faith
    1. JLC Chrono - after I further refined my theory I realized that the JLC Chrono Sector dial that I had originally wanted just doesn't fit as an "icon." Yes, JLC is iconic but the model itself is anew, and a novelty. Is it amazing? Yea. Do I think it will age well? Yea. But do I know? No. So I decided that, despite my lust for it right now my money is better spent on a different High Casual watch. Maybe if I find a preowned model down the line I'll add it as a rotator but for now $8k is too much to spend on a watch that knowingly violates my goals.

    2. Nomos - The Nomos arrived before I refined into icons so, right there was a strike against it but, more than that, it doesn't wear perfectly for me. It's a bit long, a bit tall and a bit light for my tastes but, here's the rub, I put a ding in the lug right after getting it so I know I'm going to take a loss on it if/when I let it go. Right now I'm still enjoying it enough to not let it go but it has solidly moved to the Rotator group.

    3. Speedmaster FOIS -I really dig it but I have been torn between my two black dialed chronos. Is it the right black dial chrono to keep over the IWC? I'm not entirely sold but, I must admit, after leaning in the direction of the IWC for the first few months I am beginning to lean back towards the FOIS these days. It has a lot going for it and my only real complaints are comfort (the stupid cashback is uncomfortable) and the fact that it visually presents much larger than my IWC and I generally like smaller watches.

    4. Panerai - I really like it, and it wears so differently than any other watch I own that it does not compete for wrist time with anything else, when I want to wear it then its the only watch I want to wear. It's a beautiful piece of design and I have a romantic affinity for Italy and their form over function tendencies (leave it to the Italians to make arguably the worst military implement in history - a precision timing device without minute markers). My debate is whether it's really worth cementing as my High Casual spot. In a perfect world, I'd add an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202ST but I'm not made of money and $20k is way, way beyond my budget for a single watch (I want to get this 6 wrapped up by the time I turn 30). Realistically, I might try for one of the 37mm RO 15450ST, which can be found for ~$10-12K if I'm patient, and the 15400 is just too big for my taste. If I let go of the Panerai, along with my two rotators, it would get me most of the way there already... and a Genta Classic truly would fit all of my theories and be indisputably a High Casual option. If I'd rather have the RO, then the Panerai either needs to be my Low Casual, displacing my Speedy, or be on the way out. I'm not sure if its as versatile, for me, as the speedy is...

    5. Lange - I adore my 1815. Love it. But, with my focus on icons there is the elephant in the room that the Lange 1 is the Lange icon. It relaunched the brand, it was a truly revolutionary design and a risk in its day. It has become the face of Lange, along with the datograph, and would absolutely be a better fit for the Icon... but I'd unsure if its worth the hassle of selling and additional outlay of cash to swap it out. I've tried Lange 1s on before and they are sublime, but so is my 1815... IF I am to change it out, it would be the final peice and would not be done before I complete the rest of the Core 6.

    6. Omega Seamaster - As some of you may note, the Omega Seamaster 300MC has been dropped from my list for potential sport watch. There's a few reasons for this but the first reason was that I want to use my sport watches the way they were intended; I do not mind starches, dents and dings, in fact I like them, but after a recent spring bar release accident I've come to realize that diving with a high end watch, for me, is too risky. I don't care if I bash it on coral but I don't want to risk it dropping to the bottom of a trench (I'll get a Seiko turtle for that risk). Second, I am trying to keep the collection to 1 watch from each maker and, with the Speedy being Omega's flagship line and it already fitting so well as my Low Casual watch, adding a Seamaster would not be worth giving up a more iconic piece. Third, and most importantly, I just bought my father the SS version of this Omega. Eventually it will come back to me, although I hope not for many, many years, but when it does it will hold much more value and meaning than any watch I buy for myself and I could never justify two Omega Seamster 300MCs in my rotation so, someday, this would be let go of anyway.

    Where I'm at
    So that is what I'm sitting with. I've got some major decisions in front of me and my next purchase will be my (presumed) Low Sport watch - the Tudor Big Block chrono with silver dial and tachy scale. It's reminiscent of the Rolex 6263 so it fits my icon family (only tudor can, in my mind, mimic Rolex and still be ok), it has a robust valjoux movement and WR of 100m with screw down pushers and oyster case, and it would be a white face to wear differently than my GMT. I'm planning on adding it by end of October so I can live with my current 6 for the rest of the year and into 2018 to see if it needs any tweaking or fixing (like swapping the Panerai for the RO).

    Let's see where I go from here!
    (apologies for the poorly photoshopped image, My Cartier is in for servicing but I wanted to present a modern State of the Collection pic)
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    Last edited by MZhammer; September 6th, 2017 at 00:38.
    anaplian and Tommywine0 like this.
    Current Rotation:
    6 Keepers, 2 Rotators
    and a few guilty pleasures...

    Dress Watches Casual Watches Sport Watches Rotators
    High A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chrono Rolex GMT Master II 16710 Breguet Classique Chronograph 3237
    Low Cartier Tank Basculante Heuer Carrera 1964 Re-Edition CS3111 Longines Legend Diver no-date Ralph Lauren Slim 867 White Gold

    Instagram @mzhammer_wis

  9. #48
    Member MZhammer's Avatar
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    Re: A working theory - building a collection with a vision

    Gents,

    I continue along in my journey at what may seem to some at a rapid-fire pace, but it's time to again make a decision. I'm resolved to sell the IWC as it feels too close to the Speedy and, based on my collecting criteria, it's nearly impossible to dethrone the Speedy for a Low/Casual iconic watch. This will leave one spot open for a rotator and I still have my Low/Sport watch spot open too.

    Now for the dilemma - I've gotten a semi annual bonus at work and there are sufficient funds to partition a small amount away from the market and into a watch (don't worry, I'm not begin fiscally irresponsible. Too many of these threads turn into "save the money, put it into the market"... I'm being prudent with the vast majority so shush you naysayers).

    I'm torn between 3 key decisions.

    Option 1. Buy a white dial Tudor 79260 non-Tiger Chrono to fill in the Low/Sport open spot in my collection and be at peace for a while.
    I like this option as it is the cheapest of the three and the Tudors have been escalating in price recently as they become the next best thing to a 6263 under 10K. I like the looks, the serviceability and the fact that it would complete my 6 for the time being.
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    Option 2. Buy a pre-owned 36/37mm blue dialed Royal Oak and replace the Panerai as my High/Casual watch. Move the PAM to a rotator spot.
    I like this option as the RO is, arguably, more iconic than the Panerai, would help balance my 6 back to 3 autos and 3 handwound as well as allowing my PAM to stay as a rotator. The more I think about it, the more a RO seems like the appropriate end state for my High/Casual spot. Iconic Genta design, trinity brand, decent case for daily wear while not being quite robust enough to be a real sport watch. On paper, it is where I should end up.
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    Option 3. Sell the 1815 and use the bonus + Sale to fund a Lange 1 as the High/Dress spot.
    The Lange 1, I've decided, will be my end state for Dress watches. It's the absolute Icon of my favorite makers, it was influential and impactful when launched and has remained largely unchanged. the Case size is a perfect stradle of historical sizing and modern tastes. It is where I need to go but, because I want to be prudent, I don't want to just buy it outright with some of the bonus. I'd rather sell the 1815 first as I have a tendency to just accumulate and the selling later rarely, if ever, occurs... So parting with the Up/Down will be painful.
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    Any thoughts from the bleachers?
    Last edited by MZhammer; October 16th, 2017 at 21:38.
    Meat_ball likes this.
    Current Rotation:
    6 Keepers, 2 Rotators
    and a few guilty pleasures...

    Dress Watches Casual Watches Sport Watches Rotators
    High A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chrono Rolex GMT Master II 16710 Breguet Classique Chronograph 3237
    Low Cartier Tank Basculante Heuer Carrera 1964 Re-Edition CS3111 Longines Legend Diver no-date Ralph Lauren Slim 867 White Gold

    Instagram @mzhammer_wis

  10. #49
    Member omeglycine's Avatar
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    Re: A working theory - building a collection with a vision

    With the options you've put forth, the second is my favorite. I actually prefer the 512 to any RO (except maybe the recent open worked model), but the RO you've chosen is obviously a superb rep for your high-end casual slot. It also adds some more variety to your collection, whereas with the Tudor I could see you reaching a similar conclusion to the one reached on the 3706.

    As for option 3, I prefer the 1815 up/down to the Lange 1. If you prefer the Lange 1 then I think it's a good option as well, but I wouldn't allow the iconic criteria to become so rigid that it forces you into watches you don't like as much. Of course there's no bad choice between any 1815 and the Lange 1.
    Paulo 8135 and MZhammer like this.

  11. #50
    Member Paulo 8135's Avatar
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    Re: A working theory - building a collection with a vision

    Quote Originally Posted by omeglycine View Post
    With the options you've put forth, the second is my favorite. I actually prefer the 512 to any RO (except maybe the recent open worked model), but the RO you've chosen is obviously a superb rep for your high-end casual slot. It also adds some more variety to your collection, whereas with the Tudor I could see you reaching a similar conclusion to the one reached on the 3706.

    As for option 3, I prefer the 1815 up/down to the Lange 1. If you prefer the Lange 1 then I think it's a good option as well, but I wouldn't allow the iconic criteria to become so rigid that it forces you into watches you don't like as much. Of course there's no bad choice between any 1815 and the Lange 1.
    I was just about to post something similar, I get the impression the Tudor may not be really grabbing you and the 1815 I also prefer to the 1. It being so painful parting with the 1815 makes me think maybe you should keep it.

    The RO looks really nice and would complement your collection fantastically well.
    MZhammer likes this.
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