I've been more guilty than most of being an impulsive watch buyer. I've spent my fair share of time browsing WatchRecon with no real perspective or goal. As I've continued to grow in my watch journey, I've discovered that it is the watches I knew that I wanted, as opposed to discovered that I wanted, that have stayed with me for the long haul. With that spirit, I'm trying to build a framework for what will be an attainable (and maintainable) collection that will give me the flexibility I wear day in and day out.
I own an 8 watch wacthbox so I'm keeping my core collection to 6, this will leave me 2 spots for a Significant Other's watches or floaters who may find there way in. I'd love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or just feedback on the idea and the models chosen!:-!
Methodology
2 watches for each category - Dress, Casual, and Sport for a total of 6 core collection. I wear all 3 types with regularity so they are all a necessity (as much as any luxury item is a necessity...)
In each category, I will have one "High" and one "Low" model for maximum flexibility of wearing. Really all mechanical watches are high end but I'd like to have a slightly more affordable option and a slightly more upscale option in each bucket when necessary.
I will *attempt* to limit the representation of each brand to a maximum of one watch.
I will *attempt* to limit specific complications to be represented once in the collection.
My Collection as I see it going
Dress
1. High-End Dress Watch
A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Up/Down in Yellow Gold
My Lange was, and remains, my most expensive watch purchase ever. It's one of the most enjoyable watches to wear; the heft of the gold, the stunning movement and the beautiful asymmetry is just stunning. I feel very fortunate to own it and wear it. I also love the power reserve complication and how it balances the dial nicely. It is, perhaps, a less common choice than a Trinity watch of a similar design which is good or bad depending on your persuasion.
2. Low-End Dress Watch
Cartier Tank Basculante with F. Piguet Movement.
I think this model is one of the best values in preowned watches period. It has an iconic design, tremendous history, a world class movement, and stellar finishing for the price. This model came out of the CPCP collection in the late 90s which saw Cartier revisit some of their most classic, historic pieces and rework them in modern variations using top quality movements. This particular piece isn't technically CPCP as they were all Precious Metals however it is the only CPCP design to be cased in SS with the same movement. I love that my model is in stainless steel, which contrasts nicely to the gold Lange, and the rectangular case makes it a compelling choice even when weighed against its German competitor. Having a simple, two hand, manually wound dress watch is really a treat.
Casual
3. High-End Casual Watch (not yet owned)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Ref. 1538530 (Sector Dial)
This was released this year at Basel and will only be sold for one year, which will make it tough to get my hands on it. The size, pedigree, amazing sector dial and classic chronograph look make it seem like a watch that could have been made 60 years ago but was born today. If necessary, I'll be flipping a few of these other watches to ensure I can get my hands on this rare bird.
4. Low-End Casual Watch (incoming)
Nomos Zürich Weltzeit Nachtblau
I've owned a Nomos in the past and loved it but this one is currently incoming so the jury is out on whether it will wear right. The Worldtimer (which is really just an interesting implementation of the GMT function) is one of the coolest and rarest Nomos' around. It has an in-house movement, a really well executed dial and a great blue color (I love blue dials). It's a watch-guy watch which can be worn under the radar whenever I travel and will be a great casual wear alternative to the JLC.
Sport
5. High-End Sport Watch
Rolex GMT Master II 16710
It's my favorite Rolex and one of my favorite watches of all time. I grew up seeing the faded Pepsi bezel on the tanned arms of old guys and it was ingrained in me as the ultimate "cool guy" watch so I had to have one. It was my first watch I had to strive for (selling of the majority of my old collection to fund it) and it's the SEL, lug hole, superluminova model only produced for 3 years which is the last, best Tool watch Rolex made IMO. It takes up the majority of my wrist time and I can't imagine ever parting with this one. So comfortable to wear, robust movement and iconic design. I'm doubling up on the GMT function here but I'm overlooking it both because I travel frequently and because it is executed so differently that it feels like a separate complication from the Nomos when worn.
6. Low-End Sport Watch (not yet owned)
Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial in titanium
This one I'm still unsure on and I suppose it could be argued that, based on specs, it would be the "high-end" model of the two. I like the true utility of Titanium in a dive watch, I love the blue face, and the movement is great. The vintage styling fits my vibe and, as a Diver, I feel like one of my two sport watches should be a dive watch. They're a pretty darn good deal pre-owned and will be around for the foreseeable future. I'll see if it calls to me after I lock down the JLC.
The Watches
I own an 8 watch wacthbox so I'm keeping my core collection to 6, this will leave me 2 spots for a Significant Other's watches or floaters who may find there way in. I'd love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or just feedback on the idea and the models chosen!:-!
Methodology
2 watches for each category - Dress, Casual, and Sport for a total of 6 core collection. I wear all 3 types with regularity so they are all a necessity (as much as any luxury item is a necessity...)
In each category, I will have one "High" and one "Low" model for maximum flexibility of wearing. Really all mechanical watches are high end but I'd like to have a slightly more affordable option and a slightly more upscale option in each bucket when necessary.
I will *attempt* to limit the representation of each brand to a maximum of one watch.
I will *attempt* to limit specific complications to be represented once in the collection.
My Collection as I see it going
Dress
1. High-End Dress Watch
A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Up/Down in Yellow Gold
My Lange was, and remains, my most expensive watch purchase ever. It's one of the most enjoyable watches to wear; the heft of the gold, the stunning movement and the beautiful asymmetry is just stunning. I feel very fortunate to own it and wear it. I also love the power reserve complication and how it balances the dial nicely. It is, perhaps, a less common choice than a Trinity watch of a similar design which is good or bad depending on your persuasion.
2. Low-End Dress Watch
Cartier Tank Basculante with F. Piguet Movement.
I think this model is one of the best values in preowned watches period. It has an iconic design, tremendous history, a world class movement, and stellar finishing for the price. This model came out of the CPCP collection in the late 90s which saw Cartier revisit some of their most classic, historic pieces and rework them in modern variations using top quality movements. This particular piece isn't technically CPCP as they were all Precious Metals however it is the only CPCP design to be cased in SS with the same movement. I love that my model is in stainless steel, which contrasts nicely to the gold Lange, and the rectangular case makes it a compelling choice even when weighed against its German competitor. Having a simple, two hand, manually wound dress watch is really a treat.
Casual
3. High-End Casual Watch (not yet owned)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Ref. 1538530 (Sector Dial)
This was released this year at Basel and will only be sold for one year, which will make it tough to get my hands on it. The size, pedigree, amazing sector dial and classic chronograph look make it seem like a watch that could have been made 60 years ago but was born today. If necessary, I'll be flipping a few of these other watches to ensure I can get my hands on this rare bird.
4. Low-End Casual Watch (incoming)
Nomos Zürich Weltzeit Nachtblau
I've owned a Nomos in the past and loved it but this one is currently incoming so the jury is out on whether it will wear right. The Worldtimer (which is really just an interesting implementation of the GMT function) is one of the coolest and rarest Nomos' around. It has an in-house movement, a really well executed dial and a great blue color (I love blue dials). It's a watch-guy watch which can be worn under the radar whenever I travel and will be a great casual wear alternative to the JLC.
Sport
5. High-End Sport Watch
Rolex GMT Master II 16710
It's my favorite Rolex and one of my favorite watches of all time. I grew up seeing the faded Pepsi bezel on the tanned arms of old guys and it was ingrained in me as the ultimate "cool guy" watch so I had to have one. It was my first watch I had to strive for (selling of the majority of my old collection to fund it) and it's the SEL, lug hole, superluminova model only produced for 3 years which is the last, best Tool watch Rolex made IMO. It takes up the majority of my wrist time and I can't imagine ever parting with this one. So comfortable to wear, robust movement and iconic design. I'm doubling up on the GMT function here but I'm overlooking it both because I travel frequently and because it is executed so differently that it feels like a separate complication from the Nomos when worn.
6. Low-End Sport Watch (not yet owned)
Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial in titanium
This one I'm still unsure on and I suppose it could be argued that, based on specs, it would be the "high-end" model of the two. I like the true utility of Titanium in a dive watch, I love the blue face, and the movement is great. The vintage styling fits my vibe and, as a Diver, I feel like one of my two sport watches should be a dive watch. They're a pretty darn good deal pre-owned and will be around for the foreseeable future. I'll see if it calls to me after I lock down the JLC.
The Watches