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A working theory - building a collection with a vision

13K views 69 replies 34 participants last post by  Tokyo321 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been more guilty than most of being an impulsive watch buyer. I've spent my fair share of time browsing WatchRecon with no real perspective or goal. As I've continued to grow in my watch journey, I've discovered that it is the watches I knew that I wanted, as opposed to discovered that I wanted, that have stayed with me for the long haul. With that spirit, I'm trying to build a framework for what will be an attainable (and maintainable) collection that will give me the flexibility I wear day in and day out.

I own an 8 watch wacthbox so I'm keeping my core collection to 6, this will leave me 2 spots for a Significant Other's watches or floaters who may find there way in. I'd love to hear your thoughts, recommendations or just feedback on the idea and the models chosen!:-!

Methodology
2 watches for each category - Dress, Casual, and Sport for a total of 6 core collection. I wear all 3 types with regularity so they are all a necessity (as much as any luxury item is a necessity...)
In each category, I will have one "High" and one "Low" model for maximum flexibility of wearing. Really all mechanical watches are high end but I'd like to have a slightly more affordable option and a slightly more upscale option in each bucket when necessary.
I will *attempt* to limit the representation of each brand to a maximum of one watch.
I will *attempt* to limit specific complications to be represented once in the collection.

My Collection as I see it going

Dress
1. High-End Dress Watch
A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Up/Down in Yellow Gold
My Lange was, and remains, my most expensive watch purchase ever. It's one of the most enjoyable watches to wear; the heft of the gold, the stunning movement and the beautiful asymmetry is just stunning. I feel very fortunate to own it and wear it. I also love the power reserve complication and how it balances the dial nicely. It is, perhaps, a less common choice than a Trinity watch of a similar design which is good or bad depending on your persuasion.

2. Low-End Dress Watch
Cartier Tank Basculante with F. Piguet Movement.
I think this model is one of the best values in preowned watches period. It has an iconic design, tremendous history, a world class movement, and stellar finishing for the price. This model came out of the CPCP collection in the late 90s which saw Cartier revisit some of their most classic, historic pieces and rework them in modern variations using top quality movements. This particular piece isn't technically CPCP as they were all Precious Metals however it is the only CPCP design to be cased in SS with the same movement. I love that my model is in stainless steel, which contrasts nicely to the gold Lange, and the rectangular case makes it a compelling choice even when weighed against its German competitor. Having a simple, two hand, manually wound dress watch is really a treat.

Casual
3.
High-End Casual Watch (not yet owned)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Ref. 1538530 (Sector Dial)
This was released this year at Basel and will only be sold for one year, which will make it tough to get my hands on it. The size, pedigree, amazing sector dial and classic chronograph look make it seem like a watch that could have been made 60 years ago but was born today. If necessary, I'll be flipping a few of these other watches to ensure I can get my hands on this rare bird.

4. Low-End Casual Watch (incoming)
Nomos Zürich Weltzeit Nachtblau
I've owned a Nomos in the past and loved it but this one is currently incoming so the jury is out on whether it will wear right. The Worldtimer (which is really just an interesting implementation of the GMT function) is one of the coolest and rarest Nomos' around. It has an in-house movement, a really well executed dial and a great blue color (I love blue dials). It's a watch-guy watch which can be worn under the radar whenever I travel and will be a great casual wear alternative to the JLC.

Sport
5. High-End Sport Watch
Rolex GMT Master II 16710
It's my favorite Rolex and one of my favorite watches of all time. I grew up seeing the faded Pepsi bezel on the tanned arms of old guys and it was ingrained in me as the ultimate "cool guy" watch so I had to have one. It was my first watch I had to strive for (selling of the majority of my old collection to fund it) and it's the SEL, lug hole, superluminova model only produced for 3 years which is the last, best Tool watch Rolex made IMO. It takes up the majority of my wrist time and I can't imagine ever parting with this one. So comfortable to wear, robust movement and iconic design. I'm doubling up on the GMT function here but I'm overlooking it both because I travel frequently and because it is executed so differently that it feels like a separate complication from the Nomos when worn.

6. Low-End Sport Watch (not yet owned)
Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial in titanium
This one I'm still unsure on and I suppose it could be argued that, based on specs, it would be the "high-end" model of the two. I like the true utility of Titanium in a dive watch, I love the blue face, and the movement is great. The vintage styling fits my vibe and, as a Diver, I feel like one of my two sport watches should be a dive watch. They're a pretty darn good deal pre-owned and will be around for the foreseeable future. I'll see if it calls to me after I lock down the JLC.

The Watches

Product Hand Bottle Beer bottle Wrist


Wrist Mode of transport Windshield Hand Vehicle


Watch Analog watch Watch accessory Fashion accessory Strap


Watch Wrist Arm Hand Strap


Windshield Road Motor vehicle Road trip Mode of transport


Watch Analog watch Eyewear Watch accessory Strap
 

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#2 ·
I think that's a pretty good framework for giving some consistency and order to a collection. It also seems like you've got most of it locked down - save for the less expensive sport watch and the more expensive casual watch. Would you be moving any of these eventually? Or do you think this'll ultimately be it for a while... once those final two pieces are in place?

I suspect that, at least for me, one of the two remaining spots would have to go for some sort of rugged watch / fitness tracker along the lines of a Garmin or a G-Shock.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
You're spot on. I'm hoping that this will be it for the long haul. Like I said, I'll have two spots open for floaters that come and go (you'll notice I have no room for my Railmaster which I really enjoy) but I'm hoping this core 6 will remain unchanged for as long as it's financially responsible to do so. Other watches I currently own like my IWC and Gallet (apart from some sentimental ones I simply can't part with) will be moved on when necessary.

I also should have mentioned that relatively affordable, true "tool" watches like G-Shocks are ones that I don't count against the total. I don't collect G-Shocks so I'll always have one or two around for truly daunting tasks but they get no wrist time aside from the gym and really, really physical events (Camping or Hunting I wear the Railmaster or GMT Master).
 
#4 ·
It's a great way to build, both in terms of type and hi/lo end imo and, so far, you've done splendidly (given a sea of what, a thousand plus choices) well. Of your stash, the Omega and the Lange are the ones I'd pretty much always have I think . . .
 
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#5 ·
Terrific collection. I absolutely love the fact that you have the discipline to pursue a longer-term vision for your collection. I would say that the Nomos and Omega are my favorites of the lot.

My personal challenge has been that there are no (new) watches that I absolutely crave, so I just buy whatever watch catches my attention. At this point, I am just having fun with my collection, so there isn't a whole lot of structure. My previous three watches have all been impulse buys, and one of them was a dare on WUS for crying out loud.

That said, four observations on your collection. One, I couldn't help notice lack of both digitals and quartz watches. You have one manual and several automatics, but not even a Spring Drive? Two, no chronographs? The latter surprised me more than the former, I must admit.

Three, nothing with a brown strap? And finally, steak looks well done. I sincerely hope it's tuna instead. ;-)
 
#7 ·
Terrific collection. I absolutely love the fact that you have the discipline to pursue a longer-term vision for your collection. I would say that the Nomos and Omega are my favorites of the lot.

My personal challenge has been that there are no (new) watches that I absolutely crave, so I just buy whatever watch catches my attention. At this point, I am just having fun with my collection, so there isn't a whole lot of structure. My previous three watches have all been impulse buys, and one of them was a dare on WUS for crying out loud.

That said, four observations on your collection. One, I couldn't help notice lack of both digitals and quartz watches. You have one manual and several automatics, but not even a Spring Drive? Two, no chronographs? The latter surprised me more than the former, I must admit.

Three, nothing with a brown strap? And finally, steak looks well done. I sincerely hope it's tuna instead. ;-)
I've been an impulse buy guy for a while and it's been fun and exciting to see whats new, but very rarely does an impulse buy turn into a permanent keeper for me so I'd like to adjust focus a bit (there's still 2 open slots for fun!)

Observations
1. There is a quartz Tag Diver watch in my sentimental bucket (which were not included in this run down as they can't be sold or traded) and there is also a digital quartz in my G-Shock which primarily lives in my gym bag so it never takes up room in my box:-!

2. The JLC is a chrono my friend! Also, I currently have (and am currently wearing) a nice IWC 3706 as my chrono which will find its way out for the JLC.

3. The Lange is on a Light tan strap currently (was Navy blue in the pic) and the Cartier resides on a dark brown alligator although the picture makes it look black. The Nomos will likely reside on a tan suede. I actually wont have a black strap since I never wear black.

4. The steak was overdone :-|
 
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#6 ·
Right now I have highish end piece plan as

One Swiss dress piece - check

One German dress piece - check

One Swiss all arounder - check

One Japanese all arounder - still looking and saving for. Holding out for Grand Seiko to put it together.

One has to be precious metal, one has to be on a bracelet, one on brown strap, and one on a black strap. I pretty much have all those down but waiting for a Grand Seiko to knock me out, it's close, I feel it.

I also have a secondary lower tier that can be anything from quartz to smart watches but preferably something no worse than my two tags. But this is where I just buy whatever.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I do not know how I missed that JLC chrono.

On the topic of quartz, I guess I was thinking more about higher-end quartz (e.g., Rolex's thermocompensated quartz or Breitling's SuperQuartz).
Fair enough, if I'm going to be limiting myself to 6 "keepers" then I can't find enough interest in a HAQ to take up 17% of my total collection. If I were to include one, I think I'd opt for a 2 hand dress watch in Quartz but, frankly, I adore the Cartier and the Lange and those two are pretty much set in stone with me.

Wonderful collection already, although I query your definition of low end...! :)
I was hoping that wouldn't be taken the wrong way! It was simply mean to be in comparison to its stablemate, not to imply that a Cartier , Nomos or Omega are actually low end watches.
 
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#13 ·
A vision? Hmmm, well I think watches are about continuity and value derived thereof. Emotionally from parent to child, financially as an investment (yes I always flip with a profit) and of course historically as in vintage watches of significance. In that framework, buy what you want.
The cusp of the matter is I would like to be able to say to my kids "you can always sell that watch if you need the money", or maybe I need to sell a watch to pay some bills or splurge on my daughters. A great collection gives you some elbow room to enjoy luxury and life. This coming from a single parent that manages to extract luxury for his kids from watch collecting instead of using it as a money pit.
And oh yes , meanwhile I thoroughly enjoy my watches. So no slight intended here, do your thing.
 
#18 ·
You have a fantastic collection! The Lange and the Rolex/Omega make for a great pairing. Not sure the others would get a lot of play if it were me, but that would be a really nice problem to have...
Fortunately I've found that I don't have too much problem getting the ones I do already own into the rotation. I've *tried* to pick watches that all wear differently to add incentive to switch it up (nothing like swapping to the light, elegant Cartier after a few days wearing the substantial Lange). The JLC (which I'm contemplating putting on a milanese for a super vitnage look) and Nomos will be similarly sized but startlingly different visually, and the Rolex and Omega will be different metals (Ti vs Steel) so they'll feel very different on the wrist.

Wonderful collection. My only suggestion is have you thought of an all-rounder, such as the VC Overseas?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not a fan of the VC Overseas frankly and the idea of having two from each bucket helps me not need an all rounder (and, if I did, I think the GMT Master II or Omega could handle it just fine)

Love the JLC Master Chrono 1538530 as soon as my eye got a peek on the watch.
I would like to ask your opinion on keeping value on the JLC Master Chrono 1528530? Indeed it's a model that will be produced only for 1 year but what do you think about keeping it's value as new models coming in every year?
Honestly I don't see them holding or increasing in value any time soon (JLC isn't known for it) but that is ok because I'm buying for the long haul. I worry that the rarity of finding preowned models outweighs the few thousand dollars that might be saved by waiting.
 
#17 ·
Love the JLC Master Chrono 1538530 as soon as my eye got a peek on the watch.
I would like to ask your opinion on keeping value on the JLC Master Chrono 1528530? Indeed it's a model that will be produced only for 1 year but what do you think about keeping it's value as new models coming in every year?
 
#19 ·
Great collection, and great planning.

I am doing something similar... 10 watch box + 3 sentimental pieces kept separately. It ends up being 3 dress, 3 sport, and 3 casuals with 1 all around-er being my APRO 14802. For me, there is just too much out there to not have a plan and order, so I definitely see where you're coming from! Best of luck with the JLC!
 
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#22 ·
Great collection -- i especially like the Cartier I hadn't known much about it beforehand! Seems liek you've put a lot of thought into this and you have enough breadth in the collection that they'll all get wrist time. I've been racking my brain for how to get a GS in this collection to balance out the European manufacturers, but the GS spring drive diver seems way too Rolex-ey, and I love the JLC sector chrono and wouldn't take one of them over it. Tough problem to live with ;).
 
#26 ·
The only Grand Seiko that really captures my imagination is the Grand Seiko SBGW033, which is one of the most amazing watches ever made. Unfortunately those rarely ever come up for sale and, if they ever do, it would need to be a fast purchase so I'd have to have the funds in the watch kitty available. If I could swing it, I'd absolutely devote one of the two Wild Card slots to it but I can't imagine it ever displacing the Lange or Cartier in my dress watch slot.

Nice great and themed collection. I wouldn't call the Omega Seamaster 300 a low end watch because technically it beats the Rolex on every level. It is also far less common and more aesthetically pleasing than Subs or Sea Dwellers. The lange and Söhne is awesome and so is the JLC Chrono.
True enough that the Omega probably beats the modern Sub on paper but as far as value goes it can be had much cheaper (and aesthetics are personal, I prefer the timeless design of the sub but I do think the Omega is quite a looker!)

Hmm ... two spots left in the box. The obvious category missing is "Diver" (I know you have the Seamaster in the "Sport" collection). Could the Seamaster be shifted to "low end" diver with perhaps a [vintage] FF Bathyscape as the high end? This would free up space for another low end sport watch - which could be filled with another chronograph or a GS.

I love the concept and was thinking of something similar - with the categories of:

Dress: PP Calatrava (H) and JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon (L);
Casual: ALS 1815 Chronograph (H) and GS Hi-Beat GMT (L); and
Diver: FF Bathyscape (H) and a Rolex Submariner (L).

I could also be more realistic and convert all my lows to highs and introduce The following in their stead: Diver (L) could be my Seiko SKX007, Casual (L) could be my Tag Heuer Carrera CV2010 and Dress (L) my Montblanc Chronometre Heritage Ultra-slim.
Great ideas on your own collection! I don't think I'd personally make Diver its own category but thats the best thing about this hobby, everyone can do it their own way and there is no wrong way to do it!|>
 
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#23 ·
Nice great and themed collection. I wouldn't call the Omega Seamaster 300 a low end watch because technically it beats the Rolex on every level. It is also far less common and more aesthetically pleasing than Subs or Sea Dwellers. The lange and Söhne is awesome and so is the JLC Chrono.
 
#24 ·
Hmm ... two spots left in the box. The obvious category missing is "Diver" (I know you have the Seamaster in the "Sport" collection). Could the Seamaster be shifted to "low end" diver with perhaps a [vintage] FF Bathyscape as the high end? This would free up space for another low end sport watch - which could be filled with another chronograph or a GS.

I love the concept and was thinking of something similar - with the categories of:

Dress: PP Calatrava (H) and JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon (L);
Casual: ALS 1815 Chronograph (H) and GS Hi-Beat GMT (L); and
Diver: FF Bathyscape (H) and a Rolex Submariner (L).

I could also be more realistic and convert all my lows to highs and introduce The following in their stead: Diver (L) could be my Seiko SKX007, Casual (L) could be my Tag Heuer Carrera CV2010 and Dress (L) my Montblanc Chronometre Heritage Ultra-slim.
 
#25 ·
Nice vision or plan for your collection and by definition it has to be really good for you. Can't imagine anyone arguing about the brands or giving a negative comment, about what you like. Personally like you I'm pretty much done, but I don't get caught up in filling price point categories or trying to figure out if it is a Sports or Dress. I tended to build my collection more towards the iconic watches and styles I like and are priced right for me. I ended up with way too many sports watches that cost way too much well that's my vision. Obviously no better or worse than yours.
 
#29 ·
So, your "vision" is predicated on the size of your watch box? ("I own an 8 watch wacthbox so I'm keeping my core collection to 6.") Seems a rather artificial constraint at best.

I prefer the think "outside of the box" approach, rather than trying to see what I can fit into it. Nice watches, but I don't really get the "vision".
 
#30 ·
I do the same as the OP. Having a rather one track mind or slightly OCD or whatever... I have a 10 slot watch box and having more than that would drive me nuts. Besides, I enjoy the idea of quality over quantity, so when one comes in, it has to be a replacement for one I already have (meaning that one has to go). Besides, any more than that, and they wouldn't get the wrist time that they deserve, IMO.
 
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#31 ·
Love the collection - both in terms of watches and how you have structured it. I have something similar - combining use cases (dressy, smart, casual) as well as various colors, functionality, key brands.

Thanks for taking the time to do the write-up. I always like hearing about how others structure their collections.
 
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#34 ·
^^^ Interestingly, @MZhammer - my core collection is 12 watches (up from 8), and it has been set to that number mainly because I couldnt find a good 10-watch box when i was buying.
 
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#35 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey guys, I have a question. I am kind of new on this website and in the watch world. I have 3 watches i want to sell.

Now is my question how can i offer them on this website (i tried but cause i am new i am guessing you have to get acces somehow to sell watches here) and do you know any more sites where you can offer them? without paying an absurd fee like eBay is asking.

If someone can help me on this i will be very grateful.
 
#36 ·
Ooh and btw the reason i want to sell is because i am on a list for the new speedmaster trilogy version that comes out end of July. With the money made i will add one of those to my collection. And i am thinking of either the Rolex sub no date or the Tudor Black bay blue bezel. The new JLC chronograph is also on my list but i am not convinced yet. I love the looks but i need it on my wrist first..
 
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