Yup, great minds think alike. My first Omega, a 3572, came in today. Really digging it so far.
Blue skies, y'all!
Haves: BLNR | A-13A | Ace Weltzeit | U-2 SqE | Kingston | Paradive | 3572 | Club NBCF | Vantage | Key West | 856 | D2C
Dreams: Speedyorite | Type 1 | Orange Monster
very nice and congrats!
Now that I've had it long enough for valid accuracy checks, I thought I'd jot down my notes.
First off, my sample is amazingly accurate when worn and when stored crown-down. I'm talking -1/+4 daily. That's assuming >40% PR (i.e. winding it daily).
I can work with this combination so as far as I'm concerned, it's all good
Having said that... the 1863 starts to lose accuracy dramatically as the PR approaches 0. At roughly 25% PR, I'm looking at -5 and at 5%, -15. While there's no reason to run it down that low, I have to say it's the worst of all my watches, incl. my 48hrs automatics (my Rolex 16600, for example).
Finally, storing it in any position other than crown-down also results in dramatic accuracy loss, this time in the opposite direction. For example, I've noted variances of up to +12/day when placing it in crown up, dial up, etc.
I have worn this beauty for the past 44 years. It is a little banged up now but still keeping great time. '72 861.
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Omega Aqua Terra 15'000 GAUSS
Without paperwork, seems to be a continuum between the 3592.50 and the 3572.50:
3592.50 (863 movement, "Apollo XI" caseback)
3592.50 / 3572.50 "Professional Yellow" (863 movement, "Professional" caseback)
3572.50 "Professional Rhodium (1863 movement, "Professional" caseback)
The problem is that when you have a "Professional Yellow" do you call it a 3592.50 or a 3572.50?
Personally, since its easier to swap out a caseback than a movement, I've decided to categorize "Professional Yellows" as 3592.50s
I always wind my '76 Speedy daily if I decide to wear it for a while, and with a daily wind I'm usually within -0.5 to +2 sec/day depending on my activity, but it's about +1.5 laying on it's back after a service in 2014.
EDIT - it just occurred to me that with a low amplitude the watch would run faster, yet yours runs slower. Hmmm...
Last edited by larryganz; March 1st, 2016 at 08:44.
OMEGA * Grey Side of the Moon * Ti PO 8500 & 9300 * PO LM LE * X-33 Solar Impulse LE * Speedy Tuesday LE * SMPc Chrono * Speedmaster Pro 861, 3570.50+3572.50 x2 * SMP Bond * WatchCo SM300 * '62 Seamaster DeVille x2
ROLEX * Pepsi GMT Master II 126710 * Rolex SubC Hulk * SD43
OTHER * Grand Seiko SBGX115 * Hamilton Harrison Ford Chrono * DOXA & Aquadive Poseidon LE * Bulova Moon x2 * Victorinox Dive Master 500 x3 * Luminox Atacama 1842+1923 & Colormark x3 * Red Bull Formula 1 * Seiko Astron GPS, Prospex LE/PADI, SKX007/009/173 * Citizen Ti Perpetual Cal +300M Diver x3 * DLC Apple Watch x2 * Egard Passages * Casio ProTrek Solar x2 * Commander 300 * NTH Sub x2
SOLD * Omega AT Skyfall, MC, 2503.33, Great White GMT & SMP Mid * Rolex Sub Hulk, SubC ND, 16800, TT Sub, Polar Exp x3, black Exp II, Yachmaster * GMT II Coke & BLNR * Nomos Midnight Orion stolen * Omega CK-2998LE * Silver Snoopy Award LE * POLMLE & 2201.51 * TAG Classic 2K * SMPc * GSOTM#2 * Speedy 3513.30 * Ti SMP Chrono 2298.80
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