Why are custom strap makers obsessed with giant lugs?
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  1. #1
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    Why are custom strap makers obsessed with giant lugs?

    Seems like every time I find something I like, it's for 24 or 26mm lugs. Forgive me, but I just don't know of many watches with that lug width. I know most Panerai are 24, and a few models are 26... But beyond that brand... I mean, I know there must be others out there, but it just seems strange to me.

    Surely they would have far, far, FAR more success building most of their straps in the standard 18-20-22 range, and then some 24's, and a few 26's... But entire product ranges of only 24-26? Bizarre. And, forgive my bluntness, a stupid business model.

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    Ozy
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    Re: Why are custom strap makers obsessed with giant lugs?

    Many Custom strap makers have (and rightly so) targetted the Paneristi.

    Why? Panerai and straps go hand in hand. You would be surprised at just how popular and run off their feet these custom strap makers are. In a quick search, I know of one that is no longer taking orders.
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    Re: Why are custom strap makers obsessed with giant lugs?

    I'd say watches and straps go hand in hand, Panerai popularity notwithstanding...

    As for a small businesses no longer taking orders, that speaks to an entirely different set of problems, none of which generally point to survivability... Usually happens to specialists (surprise, surprise) who can't afford to take on more employees to expand, and in today's market, if you don't expand, it's hard to hang on... Kind of a catch 22.

    A neat solution might be to stop specializing so much, generate new customer bases, expand, and prosper... Any of you makers out there stitching away on 38mm straps listening?

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    Re: Why are custom strap makers obsessed with giant lugs?

    I notice the same thing, many custom strap makers focus on straps for Panerai owners. I guess the demand is there partly, or mostly, because there are few other options than going custom for straps 24mm+.
    Those of us looking for 20mm-22mm straps have lots more options by comparison, including a few hand made ones - Toshi and Bas & Lokes are a couple that come to mind. I'm sure there are others.

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    Re: Why are custom strap makers obsessed with giant lugs?

    I just don't understand why they say they are only for panerai. Brands like heroic18 and strap culture. And why do they need to make thier bands so friggin thick? You could put 4 dollars in quarters inside thier keepers!

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    Actually, the premise that makers who refuse orders have failing businesses has a fundamental flaw: that those makers want their business to be larger. Some people are perfectly happy to work in a niche market and maintain personal relationships with their customers and have complete control of their products. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that.
    Last edited by HoustonChris; February 15th, 2012 at 04:04.

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    Ozy
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    Re: Why are custom strap makers obsessed with giant lugs?

    Quote Originally Posted by HoustonChris View Post
    Actually, the premise that makers who refuse orders have failing businesses has a fundamental flaw: that those makers want their business to be larger. Some people are perfectly happy to work in a niche market and maintain personal relationships with their customers are have complete control of their products. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that.
    +1, Ever tried to buy a custom knife from any of the top popular makers at the moment?

    "Sorry, not taking orders now"
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    Re: Why are custom strap makers obsessed with giant lugs?

    There's just a larger demand for straps by PAM owners. I don't think many people change their straps as often as PAM owners do, and therefore, less demand. The larger straps also means a bigger 'canvas' for strap makers to exercise their creativity.

    Being able to only afford 1 pam, the next best thing is to change up the straps, i suppose. And i've learned that it really gives the watch a whole new look, something i don't experience the same with other watches. I usually only shop for straps for other watches when the current one 'expires'.
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    Re: Why are custom strap makers obsessed with giant lugs?

    @HoustonChris & Ozy:

    In another market, I'd agree with you, but that's just not the case these days. Walk into any lender and describe a niche business proposition in this economy, and they'll describe the quickest route out of their office... It's not that it can't be done, but believe me, it's tough to stay afloat. Knife makers are an excellent example, Ozy. How many have you seen fold in the last few years? Makers with waiting lists a mile long? (I myself have a Lone Wolf custom Long Horn, one of the last produced before Benchmade bought them out)

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    Ozy
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    Re: Why are custom strap makers obsessed with giant lugs?

    Quote Originally Posted by starter View Post
    @HoustonChris & Ozy:

    In another market, I'd agree with you, but that's just not the case these days. Walk into any lender and describe a niche business proposition in this economy, and they'll describe the quickest route out of their office... It's not that it can't be done, but believe me, it's tough to stay afloat. Knife makers are an excellent example, Ozy. How many have you seen fold in the last few years? Makers with waiting lists a mile long? (I myself have a Lone Wolf custom Long Horn, one of the last produced before Benchmade bought them out)
    I havent kept abreast of the Knifemakers that have folded...only the ones I'm on wait lists with.

    Bob Terzuola - 13months...
    GTC - He's at 18 months but I reckon that'll blow out
    Graham Knives - He told me 13 months when I got on his list last April
    Jens Anso was at 18 months....24 months I recieved my knife

    Bob's taking orders...but has already exceeded the time he said it'd take him
    GTC was taking orders but I believe that changed.
    Graham Knives had just re-opened his books
    Jens was taking orders just over two years ago, then stopped and re-opened his books for 10 whole minutes in October last year....Then closed em again.

    They're all controlling their output, exclusitivity and ...in some cases desirability of their product, while innovating. I'm not saying its right... hell yes, if they could boost production and aim to put straps out on every single owners watch in the global market, well - then theres competition, gimmicks and reduced prices... Handmade would go by the wayside and mass produced in a factory in China would come to mind.

    Shell cordovan wouldnt fetch anywhere near what it does now, and the worlds vintage Ammo bags would dry up.
    Pavo absolutus

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