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Buying advice - A Rolex for my 40th

1K views 18 replies 11 participants last post by  mui.richard 
#1 ·
MY WATCH HISTORY:
I've been a watch collector for 15 years now, when I got my first Seiko diver. (great watch, still have it)

I have a variety of watches now, ranging from humble Casio digitals, some heirloom mechanicals, and the rest firmly in the $1k range.

I had an Omega Seamaster Pro 2254 10 years ago. Liked it and sold it to fund something else.

I had a couple Rolexes before: Explorer I, 36mm and a Datejust with the 3035 movement. (early 80s)

Once in awhile, I miss the Seamaster Pro, but these days, I miss the Datejust about once a week.

BUDGET: $4k

WHAT I'M CONSIDERING NOW:

  1. Datejust with Roman numeral dial and 3135 movement
  2. Milgauss
  3. Sub date with sapphire but w/o Cyclops

Re. Datejust: I liked my Datejust before, but being an early 80s model, it had a junky bracelet. I wound up wearing it on a strap. I also was living in fear that the acrylic crystal (esp. Cyclops) would be scratched if I wore it outside of the office. I would really like a gloss black dial with polished Roman markers. Tuxedo is tied with that though; they both look like pure class to me.

Re. Milgauss: I would like a Milgauss with the green crystal; I love that style; just beautiful. But the lack of a date feature killed the Explorer for me, which I loved otherwise. Would it kill the Milgauss for me too, or would the love of the general style overcome that lack of functionality for me? I think it's out of my $4k budget, unless I get one with the regular crystal and maybe add a green one at its first service. Should I stretch to get this? Will I get used to not having a date and actually be able to keep it in my head if I have this watch? In its favor, the Milgauss has the wow factor of the seconds hand and the superior magnetic sealing. (I'm an electrical engineer, though I have never had a problem with a watch taking a charge...)

Re. Subdate: Since I have two Submariner homages now, I feel like it's a safe bet, and the timing bezel is dead useful. But these are just EVERYWHERE. Out of ever 10 Rolexes I see in the wild, 6 are Submariners, 3 are Datejusts, and there's 1 of everything else combined. I feel like I'd get bored of this and regret it.

I could save a few bucks and get a Oyster Perpetual Date instead, as I have a small wrist (6-3/4" / 171 mm) and 34mm is perfectly fine for me. Looking at the 40mm Squale on my wrist now, it looks just a bit big... They're a LOT less expensive, as guys seem to like huge watches these days.

I don't think I want vintage again but might make an exception for an Oysterquartz. (but they're so boxy, right?) I feel like mechanical Rolexes are already vintage enough, with their jeweled winding rotor design. I may consider a Cellini quartz, if I could find one with Roman numerals. Having a quartz one would also drastically reduce the overall cost of ownership, as I would probably buy a case opener and change batteries myself.

Here's my current collection: Watch Collection by Jeremy D | Photobucket

Help me out guys, what do you think? What could I buy that I'd never want to sell?
 
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#2 ·
Explorer 1 or an OP are great watches!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Ok, let's try this...

1. Datejust
The 5-digit references has the 3135 movements and sapphire crystal that you're looking for. Looking for a Roman numeral dial within your 4k budget shouldn't be too much work. But the one caveat with the 5-digit references is that they only come with the last generation jubilee bracelet and if your experience with them was sub par I doubt that would change much.

2. Milgauss
The GV is simply out of your budget, period. And even if you're to try and find one without the green crystal and retrofit afterwards, you'd still be hard pressed to find one without the green crystal within your stated budget.

3. Sub date w/o cyclops
You do realize they don't make these right? They have one but it's called a Sea-Dweller...but not within your budget.
I've read somewhere that you can have the cyclops removed but if you happen to break the crystal in the process you're ****e out of luck.

My recommendation? Get a pre-owned 116000 Oyster Perpetual, or a 114270 Explorer unless you must have a date. In that case a 5-digit Datejust with a "flimsy" jubilee is about all you can get within your stated budget and models.

Otherwise, I'd STRONGLY suggest looking at the Explorer II 16570 40mm. Solid Oyster bracelet, sapphire crystal, GMT and date complications, an unmistakable Rolex Sports watch and would definitely stand out in your collection. Plus they are readily available within your stated budget even in mint condition.

a watch is meant to be worn
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the advice, Richard. Not interested in an Explorer II. I just couldn't get over the useless GMT hand. (although it is beautiful otherwise!)

Sad news about the Milgauss, but I had to hear it, and it makes the decision easier.

Re. the Sub Date, yeah, I realize they don't make them. I'd remove the cyclops by applying a soldering iron to it until the adhesive underneath vaporized, then polish off any left-over/burnt adhesive. Shouldn't be hard, since sapphire glass is pretty much scratch-proof...

Thanks MUCH for the reference numbers for the Oyster Perpetual and Datejusts I'd be looking for. That is quite helpful.

I think I will settle for the jubilee bracelet. Although they are flimsier than the Oyster bracelets, they also breathe better, and to my eyes, the look just a bit dressier to go with the dressier Datejust or Oyster Perpetual.

Thank for putting some time into that response. I was beginning to think I would come up dry with this post due to my "wall of text" original post. :-\

Regards,
Jeremy

Ok, let's try this...

1. Datejust
The 5-digit references has the 3135 movements and sapphire crystal that you're looking for. Looking for a Roman numeral dial within your 4k budget shouldn't be too much work. But the one caveat with the 5-digit references is that they only come with the last generation jubilee bracelet and if your experience with them was sub par I doubt that would change much.

2. Milgauss
The GV is simply out of your budget, period. And even if you're to try and find one without the green crystal and retrofit afterwards, you'd still be hard pressed to find one without the green crystal within your stated budget.

3. Sub date w/o cyclops
You do realize they don't make these right? They have one but it's called a Sea-Dweller...but not within your budget.
I've read somewhere that you can have the cyclops removed but if you happen to break the crystal in the process you're ****e out of luck.

My recommendation? Get a pre-owned 116000 Oyster Perpetual, or a 114270 Explorer unless you must have a date. In that case a 5-digit Datejust with a "flimsy" jubilee is about all you can get within your stated budget and models.

Otherwise, I'd STRONGLY suggest looking at the Explorer II 16570 40mm. Solid Oyster bracelet, sapphire crystal, GMT and date complications, an unmistakable Rolex Sports watch and would definitely stand out in your collection. Plus they are readily available within your stated budget even in mint condition.

a watch is meant to be worn
 
#4 ·
My suggestion is to stretch your budget, if you can, and purchase one of these brand new, and write your own 'story' with it:


 
#8 ·
I had an Explorer already. Nice watch, but not for me. A bit too plain for the money, and no date.

That Oyster Perpetual with the bright blue dots is handsome, though if I were going the stretch-the-budget-and-no-date route, I think I'd go for a Milgauss.
 
#9 ·
I've got a 50+ year-old Omega. As much as I like the un-cluttered style and patina, its movement is pretty clearly inferior to today's movements. (tough winding)

I also had a 1983 Datejust before, which was a bit hard-winding for my taste. (but much better than the old Omega) When I researched the differences between the 3035 and 3135 movements, I saw that one change that was made would make manual winding easier, and kicked myself for not saving more for the sapphire crystal and better movement.

Here's my previous Datejust:


Here's my old Omega:


Thanks for the advice, all. Keep it coming!
 
#12 ·
#15 ·
Of those watches, I'd say go with the Datejust. Should be easy to find in your budget, iconic and a fine looking watch. Milgauss are unique, but unique looking watches tend to fall out of favor easier than the tried and true iconic models.


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#18 ·
Several votes for the Datejust, and that's what I went for. Thanks guys!

https://keepthetime.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=629

Just slightly above my budget, but it's the latest model with the best steel, movement, and bracelet; something I won't regret "settling for" in the future.

I had a 3035 movement in my last Datejust, but it was kind of hard-winding for my taste. (after ETA 289x, most of them are hard)

I decided that, while I find the Milgauss striking, I'm not sure I would feel that way about it in 20 years. Also, since the lack of date killed the Explorer for me, I didn't want to risk that either.

Now, the most disturbing thing... do you know what it is? No one seems to say "buying my Rolex." They say "buying my first Rolex." :-\

I don't plan on buying any more; they're just too dear. I hope this thing never (rarely) leaves my wrist.

Thanks again for the advice.
 
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