Tudor also makes a movement for Breitling. It's based on the MT 5602. Wondering if now they're doing it for Chanel. But, maybe it's a co-incidence that the Jewel count is the same...
The movement inside is the cal. 12.1 produced by Kenissi, a movement maker now in Geneva that will inaugurate a massive new production facility in Le Locle in 2021.
Chanel owns a 20% stake in Kenissi, with the rest being owned by Tudor and a Swiss-French group that produces components for the watch industry.
Consequently, the cal. 12.1 is actually derived from Tudor's MT5600 family of movements. It is COSC-certified, runs at 4Hz and has a 70-hour power reserve. Like the Tudor MT5600 family, the 12.1 has a free-sprung balance secured by a distinctive balance curved bridge.
Well Rolex steadily took over their movement supplier over decades and eventually brought them fully in-house. So wouldn't Tudor be going in the opposite direction?!
Regarding the Panerai's, are you are talking about WWII? Rather unique situation, don't you think? Rolex was under contract to help Panerai make a watch for the Italian Navy. The experience gained eventually led Rolex to make the Submariner.
And Tudor went from exclusively outsourced movements to buying into suppliers and making their own movements. Tudor still has far more outsourced references than in-house.
Sure, it was a unique situation but it was still Rolex partnering with other brands. It seems you accept it because it lead to advancements back home at Rolex. The same could happen here.
Is the Black Bay 58 actually in such short supply because the movements are going to these? The Diamond studded movement does go for a tad more than the Tudor 58.... €280,000. !!!!
There was some media about it a while back but I can't remember what where when? From memory it was a Tudor initiative from the start as part of their move into calibre manufacture. It read very much as they were the controlling party. Currently Tudor Manufacture happens accross the hall from Rolex. This was further separation. They needed.to.produce greater amounts than current. I also read that Breitling wanted the MT5602 for the new Superocean but Tudor could not provide the numbers they wanted so they went with ETA.
It was reported that Ownership was split between Philippe Dalloz, the President of Kenissi (the guy who is Tudor's crystal/parts supplier) and Rolex SA. Then Chanel came in for 20%, So I'd say 40%/40%/20% for a kind of Joint Venture.
However, Rolex could have just supplied the land and possibly labor in exchange for ownership. Chairman of board is the ex-Breitling Director, and he is said to run factory. Rest of board is Tudor President, Rolex Director, & Chanel President.
Check this thread in my post is a link to a watchmaker who sees a lot of similarities in the Breitling movement with Rolex movements. So the Kenissi company could be the result of a more unofficial cooperation between the companies in the past.
Having Tudor/Rolex cooperating with Chanel (also owned FP Journe) could mean a lot.
It fuels my line of thinking, that Rolex wants to move more upmarket and maybe wants to produce some more elaborate movements in the future with the help of Chanel/FPJ? I see some great synergy there. Also the factory is 50% Tudor exclusive and the other 50% are shared.
There is a lot going on in the world of watchmaking.... like Sellita actually producing complete watches for some brands with only a few parts being supplied by the brands. Etc etc.
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