Long-time reader here; joined to share some useful info that took me a while to find. Always planned to join someday and review my EZM 3.
After the difficulty I had doing this myself, I wasn't surprised to find many others with the same problem. Eventually, I found a key tip that makes the process a breeze.I was going to add perlon to the mix, but I couldn't get the bracelet off today - I've lost my touch. This is a very difficult bracelet to get on/off.
-- harry_flashman, watchuseekMy only "gripe" is that I find it incredibly difficult to put this bracelet on and take it off. ...
-- WhiskyWineAndWatches, RedditHow on earth do you remove the Sinn H-link bracelet? Having extreme difficulty removing the Sinn H-link bracelet and putting on a NATO. Kudos to Sinn for making a bracelet that wonít fail, but geez man not practical for swapping straps.
I still havenít gotten the bracelet off and just gave up.
-- andos15, RedditThe problemIt took me nearly half an hour to get the bracelet off my 104.
-- thatsharebearkid, Reddit
The difficulty arises from two sources. First, the bracelet-type spring bars only have a single-flange. This presses right up against the side of the lug, making it difficult to get a tool between them. Second, there is no room for the end link piece to angle sideways between the lugs. Once you've compressed the spring bar on one side, you can't angle it out of line with the lug hole to prevent it popping back in while you do the other side.
It's easy when you know how
I found the following on a thread (f23: how-remove-tudor-pelagos-endlink-60-seconds-less-936031) about the same issue with a Tudor Pelagos:There's just enough movement possible in this direction to allow you to bring the compressed spring bar out of line with the hole to stop it popping back in while you do the other side. Press in the opposite direction when refitting.Press the endlink towards the back of the watch. So what do I mean by that? Many people will push the endlink away from them as they try to remove it which is the natural way to do it. However, with these buggers you need to do the opposite. As you take out one side of the endlink, use you index finger of your off hand (hand that is holding the watch) and push the endlink towards you (ie: towards the back of the watch). Then after you release the other side the link will pop out.
The right tool is a must. ...
-- John_in_MA, watchuseek
My cheap spring bar tool was too blunt to get between the spring bar flange and the lug. The supplied Sinn screwdriver is sharp enough to get in there. A sharper spring bar tool would also suffice - many people recommend the Bergeon 6767-F.
This excellent photographed guide (f24: tips-installing-removing-sinn-103-bracelet-3139786) for removal and refitting of the seemingly identical Sinn 103 bracelet has the same advice:The guide is well worth a read. I've repeated some of the other most useful tips in the next section.Insert the forked end of the tool into either slot at one edge of the back of the end link you'll be working on. Hook it on the pin and push the pin away from the lug while at the same time using a finger on your other hand to push the link upward from the bottom (towards your face). The pin will come out of the hole and you'll be able to move the end link just enough to keep the pin from re-entering the hole. Hold it in that position.
-- Horatio, watchuseek
Cover the rear of the lugs with tape, to protect them from scratches in case you slip with your tool. Highly recommended.
Separate the bracelet halves so you can lay each side flat and out of the way. The easiest way to do this is to release the micro-adjustment pin on the clasp. I didn't find this necessary.
Additional tools (optional)
Some people have had mixed success on various watches using purpose-built tools that compressing both ends of the spring bar at once. These include the Bergeon 6825 pliers (~£160), Bergeon 7825 tweezers (~£125), Horotec 10.306 tweezers (~£40), and various knock-off versions of these.
(As a new poster, I'm unable to add links.)