Help on which 1st Doxa
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Thread: Help on which 1st Doxa

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  1. #1
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    Help on which 1st Doxa

    Hi all,

    I'm new to this forum but have lurked before and am just looking for a little help on which Doxa to purchase. I've always wanted one but it's taken me many years to convince myself to spend the money but it feels like now is the time. I currently have a 1st gen Seiko orange monster as a reference point.

    I have done lots of reading up on the different subs and decided the 1500t was the one for me. I like the traditional word placement and the sound of the A10 movement. I really like the BOR bracelets but equally like the 1500ts modern take on it. Went to order last week and it said sold out! Gutted. I have emailed Doxa and tried to call on Thursday and Friday but no answer yet, I'm desperately hoping they are getting more in but I'm guessing that's it.

    So with that aside I don't know what to go for. I'm not loving the 6000t face and central writing, doesn't seem right but, it's the same size and has the A10 movement and new bracelet. On the other side there is the 1200t. BOR bracelet and traditional face but it's got the ETA movement (should that bother me? Doesn't seem quite as nice as the A10 in design and the A10 is a little more uncommon) and more importantly, I'm worried it would be too small. So....has any one got any pearls of wisdom for me? Also, has anyone got any size comparison m&s of either next to a Seiko monster? My wrist is approx 7inch.

    It's so tough to gauge the size without seeing them.

    Many thanks in advance,

    John

  2. #2
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    Actually my wrist size is more like 7.5inch if that makes a difference.

    John

  3. #3
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    Re: Help on which 1st Doxa

    Hi -- as I only picked up my first Doxa two weeks ago, I can't really be called an expert. Nor do I have a Seiko Orange Monster to compare my 750T Sharkhunter with. However, I did a fair bit of research before buying my Sharkhunter, and I believe the 1500T is pretty similar size-wise. And I have a similar wrist size to you.

    My observations / suggestions are: the 750T (and I believe the 1500T) "wear small" in relation to their published specs. This is because the dial is relatively small, while the larger cushion case fades into the background a bit. So, if you like your Orange Monster because of it being a bit monster-like, I definitely wouldn't go smaller than the 1500T.

    Re movements, can't call myself an expert at all, but I tend to think that "common" is generally good in movements, as long as the reputation is positive, since it may make future servicing easier and likely cheaper. From what I understand the A10 is an excellent movement, so it's a + for the 1500T, but most ETAs are tried and true and are certainly usually more than OK.

    I originally planned to buy the 1500T myself, but was looking for one second-hand. I also thought that a 750T would be a good option (as well as a few others w. 45mm cases). As it happened, the Sharkhunter came up first at the right price. But I agree with your logic around the 1500T, and I think if you're open to buying one (lightly) used and use all or some of Watch Patrol / Watch Recon / Ebay / Chrono24, you can get yourself a 1500T pretty quickly (or maybe Doxa will let you know they will soon have it back in stock).

    It sounds like you've done your research, so good luck with your orange watch 2.0 efforts!

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  5. #4
    Member nepatriot's Avatar
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    Re: Help on which 1st Doxa

    Welcome to WUS. Its a great place to learn about a whole world of watches beyond what you can find locally in stores around you. As you have discovered, that creates a problem: how can you gage if a watch that captures your eye will fit you.

    Fortunately, there is an easy answer. All you need are 2 measurements.

    First, forget wrist circumference. If you imagine a cut away view of a wrist, consider wrists of the same circumferance come in all different shapes. A 7" wrist can be wide and flat, more square, or rounded. There are some people with 6.5" wrists that can fit a 52mm Seiko Sumo, while others with 7.5" wrists for whom a Sumo is too big.

    Second, case diameter is useful for aesthetics, and is secondary to how a watch fits on your wrist. You may have, or may develop overtime, a diameter size that you prefer, that you feel looks best on your wrist.

    The net of the 2 points above is that it's incorrect to assume that because one 40mm diameter watch fits another person with a 7", that same watch will fit your 7" wrist. Or if you have a 40mm watch you like that fits your 7" wrist, all 40mm diameter watches fit you the same way.

    The first measurement you need is case length. Some times called "lug to lug" (not to be confused with lug width, the distance between lugs, which is used to determine the size strap or bracelet).

    The second measurement is the length across the flat area on top of your wrist, in mm, where a watch sits (just up the arm above the wrist bone), between where your wrist starts to curve down on each side. This is not the maximum width of your wrist, but the flat area on top.

    Now, compare your measurement above to any watch's case length. If the watch case length is =/< than your flat area measurement on top of your wrist, the watch is a good candidate for your wrist.

    If >, then it may be a candidate, but you need to consider a few other factors: the lug curvature, and how flat the case back is. A watch case with deeply curved lugs, that can hug the wrist, where your wrist starts to curve down, can give you an extra mm or so. A protruding case back, where the case back is more like an saucer, and extending past the lug tips, can lift the watch off the wrist, creating instability.

    If all 4 lug tips are suspended in air, the case length is too long for the wrist.

    The key to fit is stability. Ideally, the case should maintain contact with your wrist, all the way to the lug tips. A watch with a flat case back allows the watch to "sit down" on your wrist, and can provide stability, even in the lug tips on one side are not in contact with your wrist all the way out to the tips.

    An unstable watch will tend to flop around from side to side as you walk. It will tend to slide down your wrist, over the wrist bone, and on to your hand, where the crown might dig in. To compensate, wearers will often over tighten the strap or bracelet, which will become uncomfortable as the wrist swells or contracts due to temperature and humidity.

    A clear sign that a watch is too big for the wearer is when they say it's "top heavy".

    I had a Seiko MM300, 14.5mm in height, with a heavy one-piece thick SS case. It never felt top heavy for me. Rubber or SS. Even though the lug tips on one side were suspended, and the watch case was to large for me, the case back was flat and the watch sat low. It was stable.

    Before a professional watch salesman, also a certified watch maker, at a very high end, old and well established watch store, taught me this, my internet watch purchase success rate was very poor. Once I started using this simple process, my fit rate has been near 100%.

    My wrist is just over 7 1/4" in circumference. More square, as tall as they are wide, with more rounded sides. The flat area across the top is just under 47mm. A 48.5mm Squale 1521 fits like a glove, while a 47mm Seiko SRP Turtle's shallow curved cushion case is too big. A 45mm Seiko SKX is as big as I can go in that style case. My 47mm Damasko DA46 fits perfectly. My 47mm Seiko Monster was a little too big.

    A Doxa 1200 is the largest I can go in a Doxa style tonneau case; fits perfectly. The 1500 is too big.

    Hope this is of some help, and good luck!
    Last edited by nepatriot; October 23rd, 2018 at 13:44.
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  6. #5
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    Thanks for the replies, especially tye sizong one! I think that seems to support the larger 45 case being the onw for me. Spoke to Doxa today and they seemed to suggest that they were simply temporarily out of stock as opposed to totally sold out. The guy will be getting back to me shortly so fingers crossed that's the case and I can order the 1500T Pro I originally wanted!

    Is there anyone in the Devon area in the UK that has a doxa?? Seeing one in the flesh would really help!

    John

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    Re: Help on which 1st Doxa

    Hello, just a few thoughts about the 1500T which I wish someone had mentioned to me before I bought one. I was in the same boat trying to decide between a 1500T or a 1200T. I bought the 1500T and found it to be a very solid watch but there were several things which made me get rid of it. The main reason for tradinging it was the overall weight of the watch. Its super heavy; like 220 grams worth of weight. I found it to be tiresome to wear with the bracelet but acceptable with a rubber strap. Second, it uses screwbars instead of the old springbars on most watches. Many people like the screwbars but I found it a pain to change out the bracelet and limiting to what straps would fit with the watch. Other than that it was a beautiful watch in its size demensions. It reminded me of the Seiko Turtle demensions and overall wear. Third, when it came time to sell, I found there wasnt a big crowd out there looking to buy the watch. I eventually traded for another watch. Next came the 1200T which I still have. I found it to much better in weight and very comfortable to wear. It uses the old springbars for easier strap changes. From watching the forum, I dont think I ever seen a good condition 1200T of any kind sit too long for sale. The 1200T reminds me of the Seiko SKX in demensions and overall wear. Hope this helps.
    Last edited by BigDuke; October 25th, 2018 at 01:42.
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  8. #7
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    Re: Help on which 1st Doxa

    An update for the OP -- I now have bought a 5000T Seaconqueror. Even though this has a 45mm case size like my 750T Sharkhunter, it definitely wears bigger. This is primarily because it is quite a bit thicker (officially 15mm vs 12), but also the orange colour makes it look bigger to my eye than the Sharkhunter's black. Re your preferred 1500T, spec-wise it has the same 45mm size and 15mm height as the 5000T. However, for the 5000T at least I get a bit over 16mm at the highest point of the domed glass, so if the 1500T is the same, this is an unusually thick watch.

    I don't find a problem with the size, but it is something to be aware of when deciding on your 1500T vs other options. Here's a pic of my 5000T.


    Name:  Doxa Orange 3.jpg
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  9. #8
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    Re: Help on which 1st Doxa

    Nepatriot on post #4. Thanks for sharing your valuable info. Im not a Doxa owner but stumbled onto this thread and read your post about sizing. Really helpful.


    All these helpful tips can add up to actually buying watches you like to wear because they fit good. Many of you may have similar stories...and once I got into watches...I went through probably 6-8 before I really found what I liked and what fit me good.

    Good luck Doxa owners!!

  10. #9
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    Re: Help on which 1st Doxa

    This is a great link to compare specs on Doxa's:

    https://forums.watchuseek.com/f34/co...s-1089459.html

    From the data, here is a comparison of these watches (included the 1200):

    L W H
    750 47mm 45mm 14mm
    1200 44.6mm 42.7mm 14mm
    1500 47mm 45mm 15mm
    5000 47mm 45mm 15mm

    Looked for but could not find any straight-on side views of the 1500 or 5000, showing how far down the case back protrudes below the lugs.

    Side views for other Doxa subs can be found; those suggest that as the depth rating increases, the protrusion of the case back increases.

    This suggests that the 750 would have the "flattest" case back, and the 5000 has the most protruding.

    The 750, 1500 and 5000 it would seem all use the same 47mm case. The key difference, as far as fit, would be the case backs, with the 750 sitting lowest on the wrist, and the 1500 lifted the highest off the wrist.

    If the OP's wrist can accommodate a 47mm case, the only difference between a 1500 and 5000 is how much the case back lifts it off the wrist.

  11. #10
    Member nepatriot's Avatar
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    Re: Help on which 1st Doxa

    Quote Originally Posted by river bum View Post
    Nepatriot on post #4. Thanks for sharing your valuable info. Im not a Doxa owner but stumbled onto this thread and read your post about sizing. Really helpful.


    All these helpful tips can add up to actually buying watches you like to wear because they fit good. Many of you may have similar stories...and once I got into watches...I went through probably 6-8 before I really found what I liked and what fit me good.

    Good luck Doxa owners!!
    Thanks, and glad to hear that is of some help!

    When I started out, I bought and flipped my first 3 or 4 watches. Even if you buy a good price, and keep the watch in pristine condition, there is always some loss in flipping. So that can add up quickly. When I flip a watch now, it's not because bought a watch that doesn't fit, but because my interests have shifted.

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