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30th Birthday Watch: Gold Rolex vs. Lange vs. Indy

7K views 46 replies 33 participants last post by  Crosspolytope 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all! I'm at the point where I want to start thinking about my 30th birthday watch. With kids likely coming soon after, this will likely be my last significant purchase for a long while, so I want to make sure I think it through and make sure it'll be a keeper.

I've owned over 80 watches over the last 5 years and have not spent over $20k on a single watch. I've owned every single watch under $20k that I like, with the exception of a steel Daytona. For my 30th birthday watch, I'm giving myself a budget of ~$35k. I have no problem spending less than that, but would prefer not to go over. Based on things I've tried on over the years, I've narrowed down my thinking to three main ideas: a gold Rolex, a Lange 1, or a simple time only watch from an independent watchmaker. I know they are very different options, and I would own all three in a heartbeat if I had unlimited money, but that is obviously not the case.

I currently have 15 watches. I'll share some pics to give an idea of what I have and plan to keep. 9 of them are on the cheap side, and are mostly gifts and pieces I've inherited, so I will never get rid of them:

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I also have 3 more that are keepers that I love. My Lange 1815 U/D in white gold, Explorer 1, and Milgauss Z-Blue. The commemorated life events for me.

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I have three more that are expendable. I do love them, but they don't mean much to me and I have no problem selling them. Rolex DJ36, Grand Seiko Snowflake, and Pelagos Blue.

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So, here is my thinking for the next watch:

  • Gold Rolex - Something about the feeling of wearing gold and the weight is just special. I've been considering both a gold Daytona and a DD40 either in white or rose gold. I won't get too specific on dials because there are a bunch that I like and more may be introduced at Basel this coming year.
  • Lange 1 - I've always loved the Lange 1. Because I already have the 1815 U/D in white gold, I'd be looking to go rose gold with this. I'm considering both the base Lange 1 and the Lange 1 Moonphase. I'd really love a Zeitwerk or Platinum Dato, but they are way above what I want to spend at this time.
  • Indy - This is where things get a little complicated. I love so many independents, but most of the ones I love are way above my spending comfort level (i.e. Gronefeld Remontoire, MB&F LM101, DeBethune DB25, RG Logical One, Voutilainen, Journe Centigraphe). The ones in my price range that I'd consider are the Gronefeld 1941 Principia, Journe Chronometre Souverain Havana, and Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor.

Here are some pics of the things I'm considering. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions outside of what I mentioned?

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#4 ·
I’m going to say, hang on to the Grand Seiko, but let the Rolex and Tudor see pastures new.
As much as I like most FP Journes, the Laurent Ferrier Galet movement does more for me, even if the colour is ubiquitous by comparison.
Gronefeld have long since held a special fondness, right from the very start, but the Principia’s rotor really should have been skeletonised, or used sapphire, like Lehmann, if a micro-rotor was never on the cards from the outset.
Such a glaring oversight, in my view, as it does a lovely movement like theirs, no favours at all.
Also worth keeping Urban Jurgensen in mind, especially pre-owned, like LF and De Bethune, which is where you get the best value.
 
#11 ·
I would definitely go either Lange or an independent. Going to catch .... for this but IMO Rolex is incredibly boring and a solid gold one is pretty tacky.

Personally I am selling my Lange 1 and going FPJ because I got a little bored of it and want something a little wacky.
How wacky we talking? Also worth nothing that I'd be buying new.
 
#8 ·
I would suggest you to glacé at Patek Philippe watches as well. For around $40k you’ve many good options for complication watches. I somehow find an air of royalty in their watches. You get an assurance of life time service for the watch.

Many independent watchmakers can’t ensure lifetime service. We don’t know what system of services would evolve after they left this terra firma. Most of them are one man show and market forces in luxury segment are very ruthless indeed.
 
#10 ·
I would suggest you to glacé at Patek Philippe watches as well. For around $40k you've many good options for complication watches. I somehow find an air of royalty in their watches. You get an assurance of life time service for the watch.

Many independent watchmakers can't ensure lifetime service. We don't know what system of services would evolve after they left this terra firma. Most of them are one man show and market forces in luxury segment are very ruthless indeed.
That's one fear I always have. Service. Journe probably did the right thing selling a stake in the company to ensure longevity. A lot of the others, not so much.
 
#15 ·
If you are buying new and you want it for your birthday, then you may need to decide now and get your name on a waiting list, as some of your choices may not be readily available.

It won’t feel so special if you get it significantly later than your 30th.
 
#16 ·
If you are buying new and you want it for your birthday, then you may need to decide now and get your name on a waiting list, as some of your choices may not be readily available.

It won't feel so special if you get it significantly later than your 30th.
I have plenty of time. I'm starting my search plenty in advance so I make sure I make the right decision, and accounting for any lists I may need to get on.
 
#18 ·
As much as I love Lange, you've already got one. I'd opt for an independent in your scenario. However, I would be boring and play it safe with a rose gold FPJ souverain.
 
#19 ·
The up/down is functionally almost a perfect substitute for the CS though. Both are excellent but given OP's Lange, might as well go (a little) wild.
 
#20 ·
Of those you mentioned, Laurent Ferrier or the Journe would be the way I would look. If it were me, Lange or Rolex wouldn’t be part of the conversation, especially since you own the 1815 UpDown. At the moment, I’d lean towards the Laurent Ferrier for that black polishing and movement finishing, especially since you own other casual watches, but you cannot go wrong with either. You also could clearly get yourself into some complications like tourbillons or repeaters or perpetual calendars if these do anything for you. You also might keep a eye on the preowned market. With a 35k budget, plus the ability to go upwards from there by flipping some others, this is quite a lot of juice on the preowned market, if you found a motivated seller who knows what could be in reach? Heck, if you flipped your Lange as well, you MIGHT maybe even be able to line up a Voutilainen? Just something to think about. Other potential options to consider that are squarely in your budget are Lange and Heyne and Moritz Grossman.
 
#21 ·
Lots of great choices out there at your price point. I would look at Breguet as well. One of the finest watchmakers around. The new alarm classique is amazing and has a great complication. The case back finishing on the movement is superb. These pics don't do the watch justice as the stickers are on it.
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#27 ·
Lots of great choices out there at your price point. I would look at Breguet as well. One of the finest watchmakers around. The new alarm classique is amazing and has a great complication. The case back finishing on the movement is superb. These pics don't do the watch justice as the stickers are on it.
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Wow this watch is absolutely stunning. Have a case back photo? (Or were you saying it has stickers so you can't see well)?

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#22 ·
You asked the high-end sub-forum whether to buy a Rolex or a high-end watch, and predictably the high-end sub-forum recommended a high-end watch.

But it's possible you are a Rolex guy. Two of your three "keepers" are Rolex, as is one of your three secondary watches, so it seems you like the brand. Moreover, most of your big six watches are on bracelets, so you have at least a strong revealed preference for bracelets over straps.

Rolex obviously still interests you, or you wouldn't be asking about it. So I will say: get your gold Rolex. Get the rose gold Day-Date with the olive dial which you shared a photo of; you won't regret getting a gold Rolex Day-Date if you are inclined to want one. And make sure to go non-white gold (i.e. rose or yellow) for the full gold Rolex experience. And if you change your mind in the future, you can generally get out of a Rolex without losing your shirt.
 
#25 ·
You asked the high-end sub-forum whether to buy a Rolex or a high-end watch, and predictably the high-end sub-forum recommended a high-end watch.

But it's possible you are a Rolex guy. Two of your three "keepers" are Rolex, as is one of your three secondary watches, so it seems you like the brand. Moreover, most of your big six watches are on bracelets, so you have at least a strong revealed preference for bracelets over straps.

Rolex obviously still interests you, or you wouldn't be asking about it. So I will say: get your gold Rolex. Get the rose gold Day-Date with the olive dial which you shared a photo of; you won't regret getting a gold Rolex Day-Date if you are inclined to want one. And make sure to go non-white gold (i.e. rose or yellow) for the full gold Rolex experience. And if you change your mind in the future, you can generally get out of a Rolex without losing your shirt.
I tend to agree...but both of the Lange that we're presented are absolute stunning and unique pieces. I think if it were me I'd choose those but coffee drinker had some good points on if the preference is bracelet. My worries on an all gold watch on bracelet would just be wearing it - I don't think i could wear it very often just for fear of how easily gold can wear/scratch/dent etc.

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#24 ·
I would choose a FPJ Havana - very versatile. I really liked the rose gold Rolex DD but gave up the last minute. Not sure I would feel comfortable wearing a gold Rolex. With regards to A Lange, guess the love with the movement will last forever but not sure how long it will last with the dial.
 
#26 ·
Ah man, your 3 expendables are basically my dream 3 watch collection! I'd go for a simple daytona if you can swing it. That or a green dial day date. For some reason they always appeal to me.

Ps happy birthday. 30....its only down from here mate!

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#30 ·
Consider a perpetual calendar with a year complication for your birthday. Options are available from IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Ulysse Nardin. They are easier to set than pusher-set perpetual calendars, and the year complication will remind you of the scarcity of time. (Alternatively, the Ochs und Junior Perpetual Calendar previously featured is also very easy to set, although it lacks a year complication.) I think the Rolex Day-Date is a cool watch, but don't like the idea of having to set the day and the date separately. The day and the date are not linked.
 
#38 ·
I got a DateJust for my 30th birthday. There is something to be said for buying an icon. I own various watches, some from independents and some from icons now, and the DateJust has been trumped by many more valuable watches. That said, it will never be sold and always has a special place in my heart. I wore it on Monday. For this sort of a birthday, I would go Rolex or Patek. Since Patek isn't on your list, that means Rolex.
 
#41 ·
There's a few watches you mentioned in your shortlist that would be difficult to obtain (unless you overpay) even if they did become your choice.

You also have a fairly eclectic bunch of watches and admit to being a bit of a 'flipper'. Despite what some naysayers might proclaim, I do think resale value is important to a collector like you as you might well exchange or sell it one day - for that reason I would steer clear of ALS if I was you.

I bought this watch just before the price hike. I think it's pretty special (albeit not high end) and I genuinely think it will hold its price pretty well too (model number 116622)

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