<40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?
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  1. #1
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    <40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

    Firstly, apologies if this is in the wrong forum. Took a look across the various subforums and thought this was the best place to post given what I am looking at - mods, please kindly move if I got it wrong!
    ______

    I am looking for a <=40mm dress or dressy watch (but nothing smaller than 36-37mm please), on leather strap, that can track two timezones. It must also have a date. I am ambivalent towards whether it is a GMT, Dual Time, Home Time, Travel Time, etc. etc. - as long as it can track two timezones.

    I currently have a 116710 GMT, but it's a bit sporty sometimes when I am in a more formal suit and tie, particularly if I am having meetings with a more traditional crowd. Further, I am occasionally in black tie, and although I can simply take my wristwatch off and carry a pocketwatch, I would like a watch that can semi-acceptably slip under the radar most times even in black tie - i.e. not too, too much busier than a traditional three hander AND slim enough to fit under french cuffs (I am aware that the vast majority of practical modern society find it acceptable to wear a sub / LN in a suit, or even black tie, but please humor me for now).

    Here are some options I am exploring, and I was hoping the excellent WUS community could suggest any that I am missing. Again, must track two timezones, have a date, and come on a strap (no bracelets please).

    - Patek 5134 (edit: nvm forgot that this doesn't have a date)

    - Chopard L.U.C. Classic GMT 16/1867 or 161867 (unsure of the exact serial semantics) - does anyone have more info about this watch by the way? I googled a bunch and it is hard to find info on this...I love this Chopard since it looks very much like a JLC MUT Moon 39 (and I love that JLC design, but too bad it's not a GMT)

    - GP 1966 dual time

    - JLC Master Geographic Q1428421

    - JLC Master Hometime (both historical and modern iterations)

    I am aware of but have eliminated the following: AP Jules Audemars Dual Time (36mm too small, modern iterations' dials too busy), Lange Timezone 1 (brilliant watch but dial also draws significant attention), Montblanc GMTs (not a fan of the dials), Omega Worldtimer (too big), VC / Patek Worldtimers (dial draws too much attention), GS GMTs - both spring drive and high beat iterations (their 40mm and ~14mm thickness makes these just a tad too large for my tastes).

    Any additional information you have on these potential candidates, especially regarding the Chopard, and any other suggestions you might have are welcome. I would like something at least at or above the Omega Aqua Terra GMT levels of horology / price (honestly I love the AT, but the AT GMTs are too large and are sporty even on a strap, so those are out as well). Thank you for reading!
    Last edited by CasinoRoyale; April 22nd, 2020 at 09:20.
    Rolex GMT-Master II (116710LN) | Tissot Visodate Black (T0194301605101)
    ______

    Rolex Datejust 41 Black / Smooth / Oyster (126300) | Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Blue 3 6 9 (116000) | Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (212.30.41.20.03.001) | Omega Aqua Terra Blue (2503.80)

  2. #2
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    Re: <40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

    Hi mate,

    May I suggest a few options that I think are a level above the GP and the JLC in terms of finishing and horological qualities?
    For a dual time/gmt classy timepiece, you should look at Breguet and Blancpain's offerings.

    Namely, the Blancpain Villeret collection, they have a GMT, a half timezone (useful if you travel to India for example), a gmt/alarm combination, and multiple dial options. Most of the references are available in White Gold or Rose gold, and some in Yellow gold too.
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    Breguet has a "Réveil du Tsar" (GMT + Alarm, same base movement as the BP), available in a guilloché dial or a white enamel dial, that is absolutely stunning in the metal.

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    I think those options are above the JLC in terms of finishing, and above the GP on all accounts.
    As for the Chopard, I don't know which reference you are mentioning, now the ref I know is the 16/1867, which is a fine watch with an amazing movement, but the look is not exactly modern. I think it didn't age very well. Just my opinion though.

    Let me know if you find those suggestions useful and we can maybe add a few more similar or different references depending on what you like.

    All the best,
    A.
    GrouchoM and fargo like this.

  3. #3
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    Re: <40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by ar7iste View Post
    Hi mate,

    May I suggest a few options that I think are a level above the GP and the JLC in terms of finishing and horological qualities?
    For a dual time/gmt classy timepiece, you should look at Breguet and Blancpain's offerings.

    Namely, the Blancpain Villeret collection, they have a GMT, a half timezone (useful if you travel to India for example), a gmt/alarm combination, and multiple dial options. Most of the references are available in White Gold or Rose gold, and some in Yellow gold too.
    Name:  blancpain_villeret_half_time_zone.jpg
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    Name:  Blancpain-Villeret-GMT-Date-004.jpg
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    Breguet has a "Réveil du Tsar" (GMT + Alarm, same base movement as the BP), available in a guilloché dial or a white enamel dial, that is absolutely stunning in the metal.

    Name:  buy-now-breguet-boutique-exclusive-classique-le-rveil-du-tsar_1.jpg
Views: 69
Size:  104.1 KB


    I think those options are above the JLC in terms of finishing, and above the GP on all accounts.
    As for the Chopard, I don't know which reference you are mentioning, now the ref I know is the 16/1867, which is a fine watch with an amazing movement, but the look is not exactly modern. I think it didn't age very well. Just my opinion though.

    Let me know if you find those suggestions useful and we can maybe add a few more similar or different references depending on what you like.

    All the best,
    A.
    Hi - thanks so much for the suggestions. That Breguet is amazing and I will look into it, albeit more as a competitor to my next "complication" watch acquirement. Somehow the JLC Master Geographic manages to look "simpler" despite its complications being comparable in function with some ALS/Breguets - I think it's because of the JLC's white dial and relatively simple markers, as well as its small / slim case (39mm x 12mm thickness).

    As for the BP - it's funny because somebody on CWC (Canadian forums) suggested earlier in the day the exact watch - the Villeret GMT. This was a watch that I was completely ignorant about - and it is rapidly approaching the top of my list now. I will say that, functionally, it is similar to the GP 1966 Dual Time, but imo (and I fully agree with you), the BP is clearly a tier above (also it doesn't need a corrector tool to quickset the date, unlike the JLC and the GP - although on the JLC this is far more understandable due to the worldtimer function). I am also glad that I love the BP design and finishing far more than the GP, so we can cross off the GP.

    Regarding the Chopard - yes 16/1867 is the right watch. And it is indeed a bit aged (~2000s?). The movement is also more annoying than the BP in the sense that it requires a corrector as well. I love the look, but I also love the BP, so I think we can cross off the Chopard for now.

    Therefore, we're left with the JLC Geographic versus the BP Villeret GMT...with the price points being rather similar, I guess it comes down to the horology, functionality, and looks, which is a decision I will make to make. I am leaning BP for now and it is in the top spot, so if you have any similar suggestions to the BP Villeret GMT, I'm all ears! Also, if there exists a watch similar to the ALS Saxonia Dual Time, but with a date, I am also all ears within the price ranges we are discussing (anything from JLC to Breguet / ALS level).

    Thanks so much for your reply!
    Last edited by CasinoRoyale; April 22nd, 2020 at 16:39. Reason: grammar
    Rolex GMT-Master II (116710LN) | Tissot Visodate Black (T0194301605101)
    ______

    Rolex Datejust 41 Black / Smooth / Oyster (126300) | Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Blue 3 6 9 (116000) | Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (212.30.41.20.03.001) | Omega Aqua Terra Blue (2503.80)

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  5. #4
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    Re: <40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by CasinoRoyale View Post
    Hi - thanks so much for the suggestions. That Breguet is amazing and I will look into it, albeit more as a competitor to my next "complication" watch acquirement. Somehow the JLC Master Geographic manages to look "simpler" despite its complications being comparable in function with some ALS/Breguets - I think it's because of the JLC's white dial and relatively simple markers, as well as its small / slim case (39mm x 12mm thickness).

    As for the BP - it's funny because somebody on CWC (Canadian forums) suggested earlier in the day the exact watch - the Villeret GMT. This was a watch that I was completely ignorant about - and it is rapidly approaching the top of my list now. I will say that, functionally, it is similar to the GP 1966 Dual Time, but imo (and I fully agree with you), the BP is clearly a tier above (also it doesn't need a corrector tool to quickset the date, unlike the JLC and the GP - although on the JLC this is far more understandable due to the worldtimer function). I am also glad that I love the BP design and finishing far more than the GP, so we can cross off the GP.

    Regarding the Chopard - yes 16/1867 is the right watch. And it is indeed a bit aged (~2000s?). The movement is also more annoying than the BP in the sense that it requires a corrector as well. I love the look, but I also love the BP, so I think we can cross off the Chopard for now.

    Therefore, we're left with the JLC Geographic versus the BP Villeret GMT...with the price points being rather similar, I guess it comes down to the horology, functionality, and looks, which is a decision I will make to make. I am leaning BP for now and it is in the top spot, so if you have any similar suggestions to the BP Villeret GMT, I'm all ears! Also, if there exists a watch similar to the ALS Saxonia Dual Time, but with a date, I am also all ears within the price ranges we are discussing (anything from JLC to Breguet / ALS level).

    Thanks so much for your reply!
    The BP is great and a step above the master geographic.

    I know a bit bigger but the VC overseas DT to me goes from sporty to simply elegant on the quick switch leather strap. It’s the easiest and most readable GMT I have.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #5
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    Re: <40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mbarmash View Post
    The BP is great and a step above the master geographic.

    I know a bit bigger but the VC overseas DT to me goes from sporty to simply elegant on the quick switch leather strap. It’s the easiest and most readable GMT I have.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm glad the BP is getting support as I am very much liking it more and more...

    Great suggestion on the 7900V, but I am almost certainly getting an Overseas Chrono (it sings to me more than the equivalent RO), so I can't really justify having two Overseas in the collection, haha.
    Rolex GMT-Master II (116710LN) | Tissot Visodate Black (T0194301605101)
    ______

    Rolex Datejust 41 Black / Smooth / Oyster (126300) | Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Blue 3 6 9 (116000) | Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (212.30.41.20.03.001) | Omega Aqua Terra Blue (2503.80)

  7. #6
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    Re: <40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

    Blancpain has multiple models and references, and can be had with a significant discount grey market.
    Another watch worth mentioning if you want to avoid a corrector is the ALS Saxonia dual time, with pushers instead. Very classy watch, although if I was buying an ALS that probably wouldn't be my first choice.

    But it is a stunner, and having tried it in the flesh, it was phenomenal.

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    fargo likes this.

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    Re: <40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by ar7iste View Post
    Blancpain has multiple models and references, and can be had with a significant discount grey market.
    Another watch worth mentioning if you want to avoid a corrector is the ALS Saxonia dual time, with pushers instead. Very classy watch, although if I was buying an ALS that probably wouldn't be my first choice.

    But it is a stunner, and having tried it in the flesh, it was phenomenal.

    Name:  csm_ALS-Saxonia-Double-Fuseau-Horaire-2015-386.032-2_4a22eca1b0.jpg
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    Yup, if it wasn't for my addiction to having a date, that ALS would be great! That is the single watch that has me closest to giving up a date, however. Haha
    Rolex GMT-Master II (116710LN) | Tissot Visodate Black (T0194301605101)
    ______

    Rolex Datejust 41 Black / Smooth / Oyster (126300) | Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Blue 3 6 9 (116000) | Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (212.30.41.20.03.001) | Omega Aqua Terra Blue (2503.80)

  9. #8
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    Re: <40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by CasinoRoyale View Post
    Yup, if it wasn't for my addiction to having a date, that ALS would be great! That is the single watch that has me closest to giving up a date, however. Haha
    Haha and here I am trying to remove from my potential buy list all the watches with date windows since I hate them. I guess it's really a personal preference.

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    Re: <40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

    Quote Originally Posted by ar7iste View Post
    Haha and here I am trying to remove from my potential buy list all the watches with date windows since I hate them. I guess it's really a personal preference.
    Haha yes, the hobby is really quite something!
    Rolex GMT-Master II (116710LN) | Tissot Visodate Black (T0194301605101)
    ______

    Rolex Datejust 41 Black / Smooth / Oyster (126300) | Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Blue 3 6 9 (116000) | Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (212.30.41.20.03.001) | Omega Aqua Terra Blue (2503.80)

  11. #10
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    Re: <40mm Dress Watches - GMT / Dual Time / Home Time / Travel Time Options?

    I personally love the JLC Master Hometime. The way the home time hand is hidden when not in use makes it my favorite style of dual time watches. I have the Squadra hometime but I prefer bigger watches. Have you considered the myriad reverso options? I love the the Reverso Grande GMT 240.8.18:

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