My Geophysic True second on black alligator strap is my "dressy" watch and despite conventional hatred for the piece, I love it....it's my affordable and better proportioned (thicker) version of a Calatrava.
Dark suits are covered.
In my mind, eventually I'll also need
1) A piece for less formal suits and blazers
3) Steel sports watch
So next I was pivoting to lighter dress suits that are typically accompanied by brown leather....in my mind, it would be a casual piece like a used FP Souverain or a higher end sports watch that can pull that duty like a Royal Oak. I switch between formality more often than by season, so changing bands on the Geophysic wouldn't be practical.
If you think that FP and Steel sports watches are too hard to find and insanely priced now, maybe something like a used Duometre to cover chronos?
So if you had about $20k to spend on the next piece, what's the best move rounding out a collection?