Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?
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Thread: Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

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  1. #1
    Member mnf67's Avatar
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    Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

    Hi, I'm thinking about getting a gold, hand wound chronograph that would be my most dressy and most expensive watch. After some reasearch, I have focused on three choices:

    Breguet Classique 3237
    Ulysee Nardin Monopusher Anniversary
    VC Historique

    They are all about 37-38mm, quite slim, dual register, gold, with nice handwound movements and display backs, and the price used for each is close enough (approx. $10k-15k) not to be a deciding factor.

    They are differnt but each has a classic, dressy style. The UN has an amazing movement designed by F.P. Journe. The VC is probably the most truly "high end". I like the history of Breguet and the fact Dr. Stephen Maturin wears a Breguet in the Aubrey novels.

    What would you pick and why?

    Thanks

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    Re: Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

    It's an interesting selection, though for me, I would question why you would want a chronograph if you were buying a dress watch? I see a chrono as very much a tool and I wouldn't use gold that way. Of course, each to their own and I'm not saying that you shouldn't put a chrono in a gold case.

    Of the three, the Breguet would be my preference as the face is less busy and the reason that is important is that I believe that you will probably keep this watch. In general, as we age, our eyes are not as good as they were when we were young and you will find that the face becomes harder to see. All that Tachymeter info on the other two watches may become a blur and you wouldn't want to regret buying the watch in the years to come.

    Good luck with your decision.
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    Re: Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

    I would second the Breguet recommendation, if you are truly looking for the most dressy piece. Although I am a big fan of VC, Breguet's guilloché dials are spectacular, and the dial of this one is very clean and symmetrical (the asymmetry of some Breguet dress watches is a problem for me, personally).
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    Re: Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

    This watches are not a dress watches.
    VC is my choice.

  6. #5
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    Re: Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

    The traditional gold, handwound chronograph is my favorite watch. For me it was between a VC Traditionnelle, an ALS 1815, or really stretch to the Patek 5170P. While I am a Breguet fan, I am finding the styling too ornate with the coin edge and now prefer a conservative design.

    Ultimately, the VC was the most traditional choice, despite its 42mm size. I dismissed the ALS first, as I had owned a Lange 1 and didnt really connect with it and the non-centered subdials did not sit right with me. The Patek was an awful financial stretch, and would have been hard to get as I dont have any strong AD relationships. A Montblanc with the Minerva movement was anther consideration, but I thought a watch from the trinity would be a better buy. I also looked at the VC Cornes Vache, but I like the hands on the Traditionnelle better, and despite Hodinkee PR, I wasnt sure I would love the fancy lugs for the rest of my days.

    I dont wear the watch that often, but when I do, I have found that it does catch the eye. At watch guy gatherings, someone always wants to see the movement and feel the pusher action (which is amazing), and I have noticed a few people flat out staring at it at restaurants trying to ID it. Ultimately I am very happy with it, and its been a great special occasion watch.

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    Re: Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

    Beautiful watch. I would also prefer more simple lugs on the VC Cornes Vache, but I prefer the smaller size.
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    Re: Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

    I have no use for a chrono and traded the one I had. BUT --I really like the Breguet and the VC.

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    Re: Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

    I don't really use or need the countdown functions but I find something admirable about how complicated the chrono function is, and I like the visual interest and symmetry of a bi-compax layout.
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    Re: Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

    Aesthetically, I prefer the Breguet. It is classic and the dial less busy. Of course, YMMV. Plus, as you note, Stephen Maturin had a Breguet pocket watch.... a minute repeater. One of THOSE can be had in the $6-8k range (albeit for a late 19th/early 20th century model). I hope you find the watch that puts a huge grin on your face!

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    Re: Thoughts on gold handwound chrono: Breguet, Ulysse Nardin, or Vacheron Constantin?

    The Breguet is the most appealing to me, albeit would go with the VC because I’m of the brand


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