Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)
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  1. #1
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    Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)

    I have been wanting a Rolex Daytona (Stainless with ceramic) for some time and had the funds set aside. I really was wanting an all around with a bracelet as I feel like this is a pretty big gap in my relatively modest collection. Nobody can browse watches online without the hysteria around the Nautilus and Royal Oak. I purchased a bathyscape a few years ago when I was cross shopping Subs so I felt like that itch was scratched and I like to have as diverse a collection as possible. In my shopping I also considered a GP Laureato and a basic Zenith Defy(which I might still get to have a blue dial watch). Both the Zenith and GP are, in my opinion very underrated with the GP being high horology and the the zenith being a solid mid tier performer that certainly punches out of it cost/weight class. After pretty extensive shopping and deliberating I went with a VCO in brown.

    DIAL:
    I went with the brown dial. It is stunning. It is more of a copper, shale, rootbeer and changes personalities in the light and refracting colors. It's fine with a brown or black belt & Shoes combo and blends well with anything. Originally I was shopping blue but the brown is much rarer and in this watch I felt it was the best color to have. None of my purchases are with the intent to flip but I do speculate this one will be worth a premium in the future of all the colors. Especially after the blue craze mellows out. The white gold inlays are perfect and the lime is fantastic. It is simple but very intricate. The multi contouring adds a lot of dept. The date is white ut blends and keeps it clean with the apposing 9 being in white also. I love how it doesn't advertise "automatic" and has a lot of depth without needing texture. I like the sophistication of the hands and the seconds hand is mesmerizing.

    CASE:
    Perfect. The use of polish and satin finishes adds a LOT. One change that is often misrepresented is that the round pillow isn't the only change. the Maltese cross when from 8 blades to 6. This is unique to the 3rd Gen. The case is not what I consider thin but it is extremely comfortable and easily fits under a cuff with the bracelet or included straps. In my opinion the case also looks better than the other 2/3 of the trinity. I know its a nicer watch than a Rolex but lay people don't so even though I've paid less money for cars in the past - this watch falls under the radar and if someone does recognize it then its the type of person I would likely enjoy engaging with. The casebook is gorgeous and not only is it the only one of the trinity to have a Geneve seal, I think the movement fills out the back the best. It's no Lange or Journe but it's the best of this kind IMO.

    MOVEMENT:
    Gorgeous. >60 hour power reserve and again; the sole member of the trinity to carry a Geneve seal. I'm a hobbyist and not a watch engineer but in my opinion this also has the best movement of the trinity. I believe this to be objective and not subjective given the finish, hand engraving, power reserve that was unmatched until recently and seal. No hacking seconds - although I've never use this or cared on any watch.

    BRACELET/STRAPS:
    This is a huge differentiator. This also adds the versatility to possibly be a one watch collection. The quick release system is solid and easy to use.

    Bracelet: This thing is awesome. The combination of polish and satin is perfect and it makes it looks more like jewelry. The labor to polish and bevel the Maltese crosses is substantial and much more labor intensive to do than the other 2/3. One aspect of the bracelet that has been overlooked on every review of the watch I have seen; including Ferederic and Tim Mosso, is the micro extensions on the links by the clasp. There are 2, 5mm micro extensions that can be used independantly and are brilliantly integrated. This is a feature that puts this bracelet on a whole other level and a sole feature vs the rest of the trinity. It's a big deal. The bracelet is more comfortable than my Daytona(That's a 2 tone version) Oyster bracelet and I like the clasp a lot. It is secure, and the clasp is subtle but the Maltese cross theme is not.

    Straps: An alligator and rubber strap are included. This versatility is often not talked about but really makes for a very strong value play. One con is aftermarket options but it's not like the others have a ton of options in this area either. The brown straps pretty much go with anything and the dial is flexible enough that you could go with black or blue also if that is your wish. The included deployment clasp is excellent and has a consistent Maltese cross theme. These are the nicest straps I have seen. They blow away what came on my JLC, Blancpain and others.

    VALUE:
    I think that it's speculators driving up the cost of a lot of commodities at the moment and not collectors so a lot of people are going to be hurt. That being said... anyone that can buy a Nautilus or RO in todays market probably has the bank role to cover it. Given the Geneve seals, superior movement, better bracelet and the addition of 2 straps... I think even if this were the same price as a Nautilus it would still be the best value. I also think that this being the only trinity sports watch that isn'y a Genta design also makes it more special. including the consideration and hysteria of the used prices of the Nautilus.... I think this watch is a no brainer and will become harder and harder to get as more people become disenfranchised with the market pricing games of other watches; including Rolex. I think the Vacheron is also very special given the uniqueness and sophistication of only watch people "knowing." EVERYONE knows Nautilus and Royal Oak and even the most ignorant recognize a Rolex.

    Just my thoughts and opinion. I'll have this watch forever and I am confident that this is the watch all my kids and grandkids will associate me with a long time from now.

  2. #2
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    Re: Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)

    Here are a few pictures:
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    TJMike, natesen and Ipromise like this.

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    Re: Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)

    One more:Name:  vco4.jpg
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Size:  1.81 MBName:  vco4.jpg
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Size:  1.81 MB

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    Re: Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)

    Nice review, and congratulations again. One thing about the movement not hacking--on the one hand, that can bother people who need to have their watches exactly on time (although it will drift inevitably). OTOH, the lack of hacking makes it one of my favorites for domestic travel since it makes it much easier to change time zones...

    P.S. Those fancy reviewers may not have talked about the micro-adjust feature, but I certainly did in my original blue dial review on this very website.

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    Re: Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)

    Congratulations on a great watch. It's beautiful and seems to fit you very well. A Bathyscaphe and a VCO is a KILLER combination, by the way. Also, I own a blue Defy Classic on the bracelet and think that it would be a great addition to your collection.

    Well done.

  7. #6
    Member Alysandir's Avatar
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    Re: Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)

    Congratulations on your purchase! But if I may ask, I'm curious about your assessment that the VCO movement is superior to similar offerings from its Trinity brethren. May I ask you what you base this on?

    I mean, the Geneva seal is only applicable to watches/cases made in Geneva, so the fact that it doesn't appear on PP/AP watches is not terribly remarkable. I also observe that the VCO 5100 movement has a balance cock versus the full balance bridge on the AP 4302, a regulated balance versus free sprung, 10 hours less power reserve, and lacks hacking. So granted, it is nicely finished (as is the 4302), but what makes it superior?

    Regards,
    Alysandir
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  8. #7
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    Re: Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)

    Quote Originally Posted by Alysandir View Post
    Congratulations on your purchase! But if I may ask, I'm curious about your assessment that the VCO movement is superior to similar offerings from its Trinity brethren. May I ask you what you base this on?

    I mean, the Geneva seal is only applicable to watches/cases made in Geneva, so the fact that it doesn't appear on PP/AP watches is not terribly remarkable. I also observe that the VCO 5100 movement has a balance cock versus the full balance bridge on the AP 4302, a regulated balance versus free sprung, 10 hours less power reserve, and lacks hacking. So granted, it is nicely finished (as is the 4302), but what makes it superior?

    Regards,
    Alysandir
    You're right - AP JUST updated the movement with a longer power reserve from 2 days... The magnetic resistance is a lot superior to the AP. The Geneve seal is kind of a big deal and although not apples to apples since the AP isn't made in canton Geneve its still a very highly regarded 3rd party validation of craftsmanship on the movement AND case. The AP has a lot of mechanically finished parts in the movement vs all hand finished in Vacheron which would disqualify it anyway. Black polished screws and chamfer slots present on VCO.

  9. #8
    Member arcadelt's Avatar
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    Re: Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)

    Nice review. If I was to buy, that would be my colour choice too.

  10. #9
    Member Alysandir's Avatar
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    Re: Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)

    Quote Originally Posted by R_rated View Post
    You're right - AP JUST updated the movement with a longer power reserve from 2 days... The magnetic resistance is a lot superior to the AP. The Geneve seal is kind of a big deal and although not apples to apples since the AP isn't made in canton Geneve its still a very highly regarded 3rd party validation of craftsmanship on the movement AND case. The AP has a lot of mechanically finished parts in the movement vs all hand finished in Vacheron which would disqualify it anyway. Black polished screws and chamfer slots present on VCO.
    I'll grant you the anti-magnetism, but I thought that was due to a soft iron ring - which I would consider to be more a component of the case - versus anything to do with the movement.

    Interesting observation about the hand-finishing; I guess that means I don't understand what hand-finishing means as well as I thought I did, because I was under the impression that AP hand-finishes their movements as well. Can you tell me what you read (and where) to learn that AP mechanically finishes its movements? I'd like to educate myself.

    Regards,
    Alysandir
    • Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500ST.OO.1220ST.02
    • Blancpain Bathyscaphe Chronographe 5200.1110.70B
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    • Casio G-Shock Frogman GWFD1000B-1
    • Grand Seiko Snowflake Gen1 SBGA011
    • Omega Globemaster 130.33.39.21.03.001
    • Omega Grey Side of the Moon 311.93.44.51.99.001
    • Oris Aquis "Source of Life" LE 01 733 7730 4125
    • Oris Aquis "Staghorn Restoration" LE 01.735.7734.4185
    • Rolex Daytona 116523-WSO/78593
    • Rolex Submariner 114060

  11. #10
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    Re: Vacheron Overseas Review. (fair warning - very biased)

    Congrats!

    I was looking at VCO extensively before deciding on RO 15400. And I might still get VCO later.
    I think the bracelet is really top notch with the quick change and the micro adjustment. It wears slightly better than RO too.

    But on the movement, as Alysandir mentioned, even before AP updated the movement it has already 60hr power reserve too (not 2 days as you said).
    And the balance cock vs full balanced bridge is a big deal. Hacking seconds doesn't matter to me but it does for others and that's the biggest flak people give to VCO, although i really don't understand people's desire to be accurate to the seconds.

    All in all, one of the best steel sports watches in my book too. Enjoy it!

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