Which oil/grease?

Thread: Which oil/grease?

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  1. #1
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    Which oil/grease?

    Hi

    I want to start fixing watches. I been reading a lot of info on forums and still not so sure what oil/grease I should get as everyone suggests different types.

    I will be fix/learning on old pocket watches to newer watches for fun.



    I also bought some jewellers screw drivers. Should they be fine for watch making or should I get watch maker screw drivers?

    I also heard that the screw drivers can become magnetized over time? What should I do about that?

    What book would you recommend? I'm trying to find something that explains everything with pictures that show what to do.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Jean-Luc Picard; March 30th, 2013 at 16:01.

  2. #2
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    Re: Which oil/grease?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jean-Luc Picard View Post
    Hi I want to start fixing watches. I been reading a lot of info on forums and still not so sure what oil/grease I should get as everyone suggests different types. I will be fix/learning on old pocket watches to newer watches for fun. I also bought some jewellers screw drivers. Should they be fine for watch making or should I get watch maker screw drivers? I also heard that the screw drivers can become magnetized over time? What should I do about that? What book would you recommend? I'm trying to find something that explains everything with pictures that show what to do. Thanks.
    Which forums have you been reading? Watchmaking ones?

    What lubricants were suggested? Who suggested them? Watchmakers? Amateurs?

    What kind of pocket watch do you have? How old is it? Do you have pictures to post?

    What do you mean jewellers screwdrivers? What brand are they? What country were they made in? What sizes do you have?

    Do you have a demagnetizer?

    How much do you wish to spend on books?
    Courtesy of ULF.

  3. #3
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    Re: Which oil/grease?

    Let me start with books and work backwards. Two books I've found immensely helpful are Henry Fried's 'Watch Repairer's Manual', and the US Army's TM9-1575 Technical Manual. The former can be had through Amazon, and the latter is available as a freely downloadable PDF.

    There's also the Chicago Watchmaking School's course, which can be had as a PDF for about $25. You'll find it on Ebay.

    The three things you'll need to start are watchmakers screwdrivers, because the screws in watches are smaller than any 'Jewelers' Screwdriver' sets I've ever seen; Watchmaker tweezers, because the parts are so much smaller than any normal tweezers can hold; and magnification, because the parts are so small, even in an 18 size watch.

    You can get workable screwdrivers and tweezers for fairly cheap, but once you move up to good tools the cheap ones seem really lousy. Magnification is not a place to scrimp, because it's your eyes we're talking about and you only get one set.

    To start, you should get some old, broken but complete, jeweled pocket watch movements. Broken, because when you start you'll break things and lose things and if they're already broken you won't be hurting them. Jeweled, because jeweled watches were designed to be taken apart for cleaning and reassembled, which 'Dollar Watch' movements were not; pocket watch, because the parts are so much larger.

    Don't worry about lubricants until you've figured out cleaning solutions, but you can make do with just two. The Army Tech Manual, and Elgin's manual from the 1950s, specifies only two lubricants - a grease for the winding/setting parts, and fine watch oil for everything else.

    Start by disassembling and reassembling the old movements When you can take an old movement apart and put it back together without breaking or losing anything, THEN it's time to start thinking about cleaning and oiling.

    vbomega posted a thread on tools for watchmaking which I highly recommend.
    Don't take life so serious, son. It ain't nohow permanent - Pogo

    My Elgin Blog...

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  5. #4
    Member pithy's Avatar
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    Re: Which oil/grease?

    Quote Originally Posted by GeneJockey View Post
    . . . . . . . Don't worry about lubricants until you've figured out cleaning solutions, but you can make do with just two. . . . . . . . .
    Courtesy of ULF.

  6. #5
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    Re: Which oil/grease?

    There is this post on the lub here : https://forums.watchuseek.com/f6/newb...-q-647540.html

  7. #6
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    Re: Which oil/grease?

    Quote Originally Posted by pithy View Post
    Which forums have you been reading? Watchmaking ones?

    What lubricants were suggested? Who suggested them? Watchmakers? Amateurs?

    What kind of pocket watch do you have? How old is it? Do you have pictures to post?

    What do you mean jewellers screwdrivers? What brand are they? What country were they made in? What sizes do you have?

    Do you have a demagnetizer?

    How much do you wish to spend on books?
    I can't remember exactly now. 8000, 8002, 9000 etc. The people who suggested them were fixing watches as a hobby.

    These are the screw drivers:
    eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

    Made in USA I believe.
    Not sure of the sizes but they look like 0.25 and even if they are not useful as I can use them for other projects.

    No I don't have a demagnetizer.

    I don't want to spend to much on books. Around $50.



    Quote Originally Posted by GeneJockey View Post
    Let me start with books and work backwards. Two books I've found immensely helpful are Henry Fried's 'Watch Repairer's Manual', and the US Army's TM9-1575 Technical Manual. The former can be had through Amazon, and the latter is available as a freely downloadable PDF.

    There's also the Chicago Watchmaking School's course, which can be had as a PDF for about $25. You'll find it on Ebay.

    The three things you'll need to start are watchmakers screwdrivers, because the screws in watches are smaller than any 'Jewelers' Screwdriver' sets I've ever seen; Watchmaker tweezers, because the parts are so much smaller than any normal tweezers can hold; and magnification, because the parts are so small, even in an 18 size watch.

    You can get workable screwdrivers and tweezers for fairly cheap, but once you move up to good tools the cheap ones seem really lousy. Magnification is not a place to scrimp, because it's your eyes we're talking about and you only get one set.

    To start, you should get some old, broken but complete, jeweled pocket watch movements. Broken, because when you start you'll break things and lose things and if they're already broken you won't be hurting them. Jeweled, because jeweled watches were designed to be taken apart for cleaning and reassembled, which 'Dollar Watch' movements were not; pocket watch, because the parts are so much larger.

    Don't worry about lubricants until you've figured out cleaning solutions, but you can make do with just two. The Army Tech Manual, and Elgin's manual from the 1950s, specifies only two lubricants - a grease for the winding/setting parts, and fine watch oil for everything else.

    Start by disassembling and reassembling the old movements When you can take an old movement apart and put it back together without breaking or losing anything, THEN it's time to start thinking about cleaning and oiling.

    vbomega posted a thread on tools for watchmaking which I highly recommend.

    I bought a used Bergeon brass tweezers.

    What brand of loupe would you recommend/you have?

    I have a old womans pocket watch. Broken balance shaft I believe. I also got a Landeron 48 with the same problem and a pin lever movement(I believe).
    I got some pocket watches full sized coming in soon that are not working.

    Thanks for the book recommendation.

    Thanks for all the help
    Last edited by Jean-Luc Picard; March 31st, 2013 at 04:06.

  8. #7
    Member pithy's Avatar
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    Re: Which oil/grease?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jean-Luc Picard View Post
    I can't remember exactly now. 8000, 8002, 9000 etc. The people who suggested them were fixing watches as a hobby. . . . . . .
    Here is a link to the ETA service portal which has technical documents and lubrication recommendations for a variety of types and size of movements. These selections are those chosen by the manufactuer.

    https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DesktopDef...dex=2&tabid=28

    [One can extrapolate from these to select a number of applicable best choices for use dependent unpon the degree of jewelling and size of the movement that you are working on. Smaller similar type (functioning) components will generally require less viscos lubricants than their larger versions. Bushed holes (as compared to those jewelled) will often perform better with slightly higher viscosities. Components subjected to higher torques and loadings will require higher viscosities and sometimes the addition of friction modifiers. Some complications will require lubricants specifically engineered to optimize their function. Certain lubricants function best in combination with other chemical treatments.]

    Here is a chart of horological lubricants and their viscosities at standard temperatures. The are other parameters that are influentianl in selecting the most appropriate lubricant but viscosity is the most significant one. Vegetable, mineral, animal and synthethic base oils have their relative merits and proponents.

    If a lubricant performs particularly well in one role it most assuredly will be compromised in a highly divergent one. And their appears to be no provision in modern oils for economy save for the miniscule amount required per watch.
    Attached Images Attached Images

    Courtesy of ULF.

  9. #8
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    Re: Which oil/grease?

    Alright what do you mostly use your self?


    What brand of loupes/magnification do you all use/recommend?


    I'm following this guide at the moment:
    https://forums.watchuseek.com/f365/ab...ce-308925.html

    I'm still getting all the bits and pieces.

    Sorry for the late reply. Thanks.

  10. #9
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    Re: Which oil/grease?

    Since I brought up the magnification - I have to wear glasses (astigmatism), so I use Bausch and Lomb eyeglass loupes.

    For oils, I use KT22 grease for the winding/setting parts, Nye Clock Oil for the mainspring and barrel arbor, Elgin M56b for the train, and Moebius 9145 for the pallet stones. That's AFTER cleaning in Zenith solutions, pegging all the jewels till they glisten, and stabbing all the pivots into pithwood.
    Don't take life so serious, son. It ain't nohow permanent - Pogo

    My Elgin Blog...

  11. #10
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    Re: Which oil/grease?

    Alright thanks for those recommendations.


    As for a demagnetizer would this do?

    Wiha 40010 Magnetizer or Demagnetizer - Amazon.com
    Last edited by Jean-Luc Picard; April 8th, 2013 at 14:25.

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