Prototype Diver. 4 Things I don't understand fully. - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Member ExpiredWatchdog's Avatar
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    Re: Prototype Diver. 4 Things I don't understand fully.

    Thanks Archer, I haven't had a chance to see the victim yet as my son hasn't found time to bring it over.

    I intend to remove the crystal as part of the service, but one thing I'd like to avoid is removing the bezel assembly if I can avoid it. Would you consider it safe to heat the tube enough to break down the adhesive without damaging the bezel, or would you always remove the bezel?

    I realize the question depends on how drastic my heating technique is. I'm thinking of a large soldering iron in contact with the end of the tube (along with a little solder to help the heat flow), perhaps with a foil shield between the iron and the bezel, and keeping them as far apart as possible. I've got a 75 watt soldering iron that will heat up almost any tinwork.
    Now back to the previously scheduled levity...
    Damn, that's a lot of pieces.
    We don't take $h!+ from a machine (They Might be Giants lyric)

  2. #12
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    Re: Prototype Diver. 4 Things I don't understand fully.

    Quote Originally Posted by ExpiredWatchdog View Post
    Thanks Archer, I haven't had a chance to see the victim yet as my son hasn't found time to bring it over.

    I intend to remove the crystal as part of the service, but one thing I'd like to avoid is removing the bezel assembly if I can avoid it. Would you consider it safe to heat the tube enough to break down the adhesive without damaging the bezel, or would you always remove the bezel?

    I realize the question depends on how drastic my heating technique is. I'm thinking of a large soldering iron in contact with the end of the tube (along with a little solder to help the heat flow), perhaps with a foil shield between the iron and the bezel, and keeping them as far apart as possible. I've got a 75 watt soldering iron that will heat up almost any tinwork.
    This is typically done with the case fully disassembled, in particular if heat is applied. So first the movement is removed of course, then the bezel:





    I press the crystal out:





    Heat the case tube with a small butane torch:



    This one is threaded, so I use a hex tool for it, but the same process would be done for a press fitted tube, but using a small easy-out:





    New tube:



    Loctite thread locking compound on the threads:



    Done:



    Then install the crystal with a new gasket, and carry on.
    ExpiredWatchdog and Dave S like this.

  3. #13
    Member ExpiredWatchdog's Avatar
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    Re: Prototype Diver. 4 Things I don't understand fully.

    First, thanks for taking the time to write up the thorough description!

    Quote Originally Posted by Archer View Post
    This is typically done with the case fully disassembled, in particular if heat is applied. So first the movement is removed of course, then the bezel:

    I need to do some research on your bezel removing tool, but it appears from this picture that the yellow plastic ring has a ridge at the bottom of the ID that is wedge shaped in cross section? The handles squeeze the diameter smaller, applying force to the entire circumference of the groove? I assume the axial length of the interference feature is pretty short (maybe 1 or 2mm)?

    Quote Originally Posted by Archer View Post
    Heat the case tube with a small butane torch:

    This picture is really useful, along with the singed rag. I suspect I'll need more heat than I'm going to get with a 75 watt soldering iron. I suppose so because the case is a big heat sink.

    Thanks again, I'll report on my results, just as soon as I get the watch off my son's arm.
    Now back to the previously scheduled levity...
    Damn, that's a lot of pieces.
    We don't take $h!+ from a machine (They Might be Giants lyric)

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  5. #14
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    Re: Prototype Diver. 4 Things I don't understand fully.

    The dies for the bezel removal tool are urethane, so they don't mark - squeeze and twist, and the bezel pops off. But you have to use the proper die for watch in question. This is an Omega specific tool not available to people without a parts account, but Bergeon makes a set using a similar idea.

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