Are you a denim head, into serious jeans? - Page 5
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Thread: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

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  1. #41
    Member xevious's Avatar
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    Re: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

    There are some serious denim heads out there, and you can see some of them post on Reddit (r/rawdenim). They talk about how it's all Iron Heart, Strike Gold, and Samurai, and that "entry level" selvedge is a major turn-off. Well, Iron Heart commands $250 and above! I just can't see spending that much on a pair of jeans. They ALL wear out over time. I might get a pair on sale and keep them as a kind of "top jeans" icon, wearing on special occasions.

    I've actually been impressed with some entry level selvedge or kaihara. J.Crew makes the 770 and 1040 styles and they're really quite good, made of kaihara denim. They aren't selvedge, but they feel like it. Picked up a pair gently worn for $30 shipped, which is a significant discount from retail.

    I'm also enjoying a pair of Tellason Ankara jeans that are nice quality selvedge. They are Sanforized but were pre-soaked then hemmed by the original owner and aren't shrinking on me. Wonderful fit for my body type (6' 225lbs). I'd really like to get a pair of Pure Blue Japan. But I still can't get over even the thought of shelling out $200 for jeans.

    I wish I'd gotten into higher end denim earlier... as I hear now that cuffs are on the way out. Most denim heads are hemming, now that they've really got the hang of caring for their jeans to keep shrinkage to a minimum.

    As for Levi's, I've had one pair of 501's from the year 2000 and at this point they're sitting in the repair pile due to blow-out. These unfortunate experienced high heat dryer sessions quite a few times... this was before I really understood that high heat KILLS clothing fiber (the aftermath is that "graveyard" in the lint trap). I've been tempted to try a higher end Levis jean, but QC reputation still seems spotty.
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  2. #42
    Member Dan T.'s Avatar
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    Re: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

    Quote Originally Posted by cuthbert View Post
    I never had a pair of Levi's that I wore regularly and lasted more than two years due to the denim thinness, the only one that survived was a very old silver label from the 80s. They usually crack in the middle of the leg, twenty years ago my mother used to patch them but that made them last just few other months.

    So, what's the point of spending $100 for a Levi's each year while you can buy a quality Japanese pair for a little more (I spent $110 for my 15 Oz Japan Blue in 2017) that will last much longer?
    That's highly unusual. Again, being in the business now, I can sternly say that not all Levi's are the same, especially if you pick them up from department stores or big box retailers. Avoid the denim at Walmart, Target, and Costco. Places like that. They are not the same thing, and typically have a slightly different name (e.g. "Levi's Signature Series" or something), and when you feel them, you can tell they won't last more than a year or two - paper thin, flimsy, etc. However, if you stop by a specialty retailer, like a work outfitter, farm retailer, or Western wear retailer (who also sell normal cut, not just cowboy cut), you'll pay > $60 (vs Walmart's $10) and those jeans will be there until the end. Or go into one of those stores and ask an associate what you stated above and you'll get the whole history from them. Anyway, I was in the same camp you are until I started work in this business and my eyes were opened to it. I presumed that all the good jeans I had as a kid in the 70s and 80s was my memory playing tricks on me or whatever but it's not. It's because the market is overly saturated with cheap crap and many people think that "this is how it is now," but a great pair of jeans still exists; just requires finding a specialty retailer.

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  3. #43
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    Re: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

    I believe that they bought the old machines from the US and started making their own denim. I own a pair of limited edition Momotaro x Blue Owl and a pair of Buck Mason raw selvage. I love how the jeans fade and mold to your body over time. They fit like a glove! I think if people gave them a chance they would never turn back. It would be like going back to flip phone after you've had an iPhone for a few years haha. I would like to try some Raleigh Denim and a pair of Naked & Famous next.
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  5. #44
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    Re: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

    A shout out for Tellason, here.
    They are the only selvedge I've tried, and yes, I had no idea what the fuss was about until I tried them.
    A younger friend of mine was complaining about these "selvedge denim" jeans that he paid an insane amount for but didn't fit and he was getting pissed at himself every time he saw them in his closet. I asked about the size and brand. Size was right and I recognized Tellason as a well known brand. I offered him a decent bottle of wine and I got a like-new pair of selvedge jeans.
    You're not supposed to wash them often. They do "stretch" considerably from the time of washing over many wearings; mine are at my preferred fit right after washing, but feel almost too baggy after half a dozen wearings.
    I am a big fan, but the jeans are $230 so it's pricey. I'd have never taken the leap if I hadn't lucked into this pair from a friend. I have purchased a second pair because I liked the first pair that much. Tellason does have a "stock" jean that is cheaper and a "crapshoot" jean that is cheaper still. I think on the crapshoot, you order the size and you get whatever they want to get rid of (could be perfect, could be seconds, etc.).

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  6. #45
    Member cuthbert's Avatar
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    Re: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan T. View Post
    That's highly unusual. Again, being in the business now, I can sternly say that not all Levi's are the same, especially if you pick them up from department stores or big box retailers. Avoid the denim at Walmart, Target, and Costco. Places like that.
    It's a actually very common to those who wear them often and relatively fit, there is also an "official" neologism for it, it's called "crotch blowout":

    https://www.heddels.com/2013/05/deni...to-avoid-them/

    Of course the thinner the denim is the quicker it blows out, if you buy 15 Oz. Japanese denim or heavier you have to make some serious effort to have that kind of damage.

    Regarding the places you mentioned well I never bought a pair of Levi's there, actually I never bought a pair of jeans in the USA as a whole, in Europe there are dedicated Levi's stores, that's the reason why it's difficult to spend less than $80 for a pair, if you are telling me they sell substandard products well...the 502 selvedge I have were bought in a Levi's store in Shanghai, I needed a pair quick, but they are not even close to my Japan Blue 0701.

    In that place I saw a special line of 501s made of Japanese selvedge but they are as expensive as Momotaro or Kamikaze Attack, therefore I decided a official Japanese brand.
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  7. #46
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    Re: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

    Huh, I had never heard the word “selvedge” before opening this thread. Wrangler 13 MWZ my entire adult life, but I understand.

  8. #47
    Moderator Public Forum John MS's Avatar
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    Re: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan T. View Post
    That's highly unusual. Again, being in the business now, I can sternly say that not all Levi's are the same, especially if you pick them up from department stores or big box retailers. Avoid the denim at Walmart, Target, and Costco. Places like that. They are not the same thing, and typically have a slightly different name (e.g. "Levi's Signature Series" or something), and when you feel them, you can tell they won't last more than a year or two - paper thin, flimsy, etc. However, if you stop by a specialty retailer, like a work outfitter, farm retailer, or Western wear retailer (who also sell normal cut, not just cowboy cut), you'll pay > $60 (vs Walmart's $10) and those jeans will be there until the end. Or go into one of those stores and ask an associate what you stated above and you'll get the whole history from them. Anyway, I was in the same camp you are until I started work in this business and my eyes were opened to it. I presumed that all the good jeans I had as a kid in the 70s and 80s was my memory playing tricks on me or whatever but it's not. It's because the market is overly saturated with cheap crap and many people think that "this is how it is now," but a great pair of jeans still exists; just requires finding a specialty retailer.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    I've worn 501 jeans for years and all were purchased from a Levi's store or department store like Macy's. Never had a wear through problem even on the jeans that have transitioned to gardening and painting. My gardening jeans are over 10 years old.
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  9. #48
    Member cuthbert's Avatar
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    Re: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

    Quote Originally Posted by TMats View Post
    Huh, I had never heard the word “selvedge” before opening this thread. Wrangler 13 MWZ my entire adult life, but I understand.
    The horror, the horror!



    However I just became the more or less happy owner of a pair of Momotaro copper label, $187 doesn't seem too bad but evidently I'm a elitist plutocrat because I waste my money in those things.
    Last edited by cuthbert; 2 Weeks Ago at 00:36.
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  10. #49
    Member tynan.nida's Avatar
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    Re: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

    I’ve had 3sixteen jeans in the past but have gone to jeans from the jcrew outlet store because they are far more comfortable.


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  11. #50
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    Re: Are you a denim head, into serious jeans?

    I do buy mine mostly here..

    https://pikebrothers-shop.com/ItemLi...nuGrp=00001012

    on my body today a 1958 Roamer Pant 15oz indigo 106 rinse...

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