“If you call a brand after yourself, you connect all your life with it. Your life, from that moment, belongs to the brand with all responsibilities coming from that.” (Alexander Shorokhov)
Watch Brand: Alexander Shorokhoff
Watch Model: Sixty Three Emerald-Green, No. 087
This year, for the first time, the WUS Team visited the booth of non-mainstream German watch manufacture(r) Alexander SHOROKHOFF.
Mr. Alexander Shorokhoff and his lovely daughter Inga Duffy-Shorokhova gave us a brief outline on what Shorokhoff watches are about and what their motivation is to make watches exactly in the way they do it.
For those who missed our report please click here.
All Shorokhoff watches follow a clear creative design according to the motto “Art on the Wrist” and fit perfectly into the company’s history. With his fascinating pieces of art for the wrist, Alexander Shorokhoff succeeded in giving the world of watches new stimuli and at the same time he created something new, contemporary watch art.
With their exceptional and creative design of the three model lines Heritage, Avantgarde and Vintage packed with elegant engravings and manual craftsmanship, the company attracts attention around the globe.
Watches from the Alexander Shorokhoff watch manufacture, even if they are not made in a limited run, are somehow limited and beyond that they are unique pieces.
So it`s not really surprising that Alexander Shorokhoff collects awards like I collect watches. Alexander Shorokhoff watches won the German Design Award 2016 (“Barbara”), 2017 (“Winter”) and 2018 (Camomile). In addition to that Alexander Shorokhoff won the “Special Mention” award of the German Design Council.
The "Regulator AS.R02-1" won the third place in category A (up to €2500) in the "Golden Balance 2017" contest.
I was immediately thrilled with what I had seen at Baselworld and a month before at Munich’s Inhorgenta.
After some back and forth, especially thinking about purchasing the Kandinsky I finally opted for a more understated watch, classic and elegant at the same time, with an eye-catching emerald-green dial and prominent applied numerals.
Compared to other competitors Alexander Shorokhoff undoubtedly is a young brand of about 15 years. Alexander Shorokhoff is family owned and a family run business and without its enthusiastic founder a dream would not have become true. Alexander Shorokhoff, born in Moscow in 1960, settled down in Germany in 1991. Only one year later, in 1992, he founded a watch sales company for marketing one of the largest and most important Russian watch brands – Poljot – on european soil, until establishing his first own watch brand “Poljot-International” in 1994 on the watch market.
In 2003 the next step followed: Alexander Shorokhoff founded a watch manufactory in Alzenau, a picturesque village in Bavaria not that far from Frankfurt, Hesse. “If you call a brand after yourself, you connect all your life with it,” Alexander Shorokhoff once said, “Your life, from that moment, belongs to the brand with all responsibilities coming from that.”
Before I am fulsome in my praise of the Alexander Shorokhoff SixtyThree I will start this review with listing the technical specs of the SixtyThree
Automatic winding movement caliber 2892.AS (basically an ETA 2892 with hand-engraved and refined rotor, 21 jewels, power reserve approx. 47 hours
Hours, minutes, center seconds, date (at 6),
Three part 316L stainless steel, brushed and polished, 5 atm water-resistant,
Diameter: 40 mm,
Height: 11.3 mm,
L2L: 47,15 mm (diagonal length 51mm),
Lug width: 20mm,
Double domed sapphire crystal, flat sapphire crystal on back, anti-reflective coating on outside,
Calf skin leather strap with crocodile optic as standard, green gator as an option, with engraved solid stainless steel pin buckle.
I have to admit, the specs as they are listed here aren’t unique or extraordinary but the watch in toto is just gorgeous.
Case and crown
When I first looked at the Advantage SixtyThree line I immediately felt the urge to compare them with those dating back to the 1960, thus the name. However, the look might be similar, the fit and finish is not. As is true with most Shorokhoffs, the case is much more sedate than the dial or movement, fit and finish of the case is state of the art and that’s what makes a big difference to the lovely vintage watches of the 1960s I used to own.
The case, measured 40mm in diameter, is made out of 316L stainless steel and consists of three parts, upper bezel, mid case with lugs and case back with a flat sapphire see-through back. The narrow bezel and the domed sapphire crystal made me feel that the watch is larger as you would think with a diameter of 40mm. However, daily use shows that the watch could be worn by both my wife and myself.
The case of the SixtyThree features a combination of polished and brushed surfaces. When the watch is viewed from the side, the typical vertical polishing of the case is also noticeable, the matte look of which makes for an effective contrast to the polished bezel and underlines a highly developed expertise in case design.
Even though the SixtyThree is rated water resistant to 50 meters, I am not brave enough to let it be close to anywhere with water.
The shape of the case back allows the watch to sit fairly flat on the wrist and is very comfortable to wear. The case back is secured by 7 screws.
The short lugs are curved down which is another benefit to daily wear.
The fluted non screw down crown is small but fits perfectly with the case height (11mm). Despite being on the small side the crown was always easy to operate. Like the case the crown also got polished and brushed surfaces, a successful repetition of what the case features though.
The brand’s name and brand’s logo is nicely engraved on the crown head.
Crystal, dial and hands
Like a lot of models from the 60s, the SixtyThree is equipped with a convex dial and a double domed sapphire crystal adapting the form of the acrylic crystals of former times.
Creating this kind of a sapphire crystal - Alexander Shorokhoff call them cylindrical sapphire crystals - requires special tools in order to create the inner and outer form of the dome.
The numerals 20, 40 and 60 are rosé gold plated, made and applied in a complicated process that balances the domed part of the dial. These numerals and the emerald green dial they are applied to make a great part of the overall appearance of the SixtyThree.
The date window frame is also executed in rosè gold.
The Basilica shaped hands are also quite charming. When looking at them I immediately remembered the Poljot International Basilika "Peterhof" pocket watch with its blued hands. The hands of the SixtyThree however are rosé gold-plated as are the numerals.
In addition to the small bezel the dial conveys the feeling that the SixtyThree is much larger than in reality. Alexander Shorokhoff emphasizes that this has another advantage: it can be worn by ladies, as well as men equally.
Unfortunately my wife agrees with Mr. Shorokoff in this regard. If the watch isn’t in the bot the chance is it’s on her wrist.
I experienced the watch dial to be aesthetically pleasing as well as being functional and well thought out. Time can be read in almost any lighting conditions. Reflections however are inevitable but you will very soon love the sun burst effect. Sunburst dials, beyond the extra level of detail of course, do funky things with light, which makes them all the more attractive.
Don’t expect any luminousity, SuperLuminova is not known in connection with the SixtyThree.
The Movement is a Swiss ETA 2892A2 automatic movement, rough and reliable.
The very fine finish manifests itself in perlage on plates, blued screws and an in-house hand engraved rhodium-plated rotor on ball bearings.
Besides the hand engraved floral design the inscription on the rotor edge reads “HAND ENGRAVED IN ALZENAU – GERMANY”.
Timekeeping has been excellent so far.
Before delivery Alexander Shorokhoff put the watch on a timegrapher for a final test. The results of the test are written down in the warranty booklet you will get with the watch.
Crown left: +7
Crown up: +5
Crown down: +9
Dial down: +3
Dial up: +6
I am quite satisfied with the performance so far. I did not observe any break-in time, the average gain is +3/+5 sec/24h on the wrist and dial up at night.
Adjusting the time – if deemed necessary – is easy to be done, the movement does hack.
b]Strap and buckle[/b]
The watch was delivered with a tapered (20/18) green gator strap (green stichting on top, CITES label included) and left nothing to be desired. Very supple and comfortable from the very beginning.
The strap is fitted with a brushed stainless steel pin buckle. The solid buckle (solid = 21,5mm and confidence-inspiring) is engraved with “ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF”.
Lug width is 20 mm which makes the search for after market straps an easy-peasy endeavor.
The watch came in a premium wooden laquered box, lined with faux ecru (almost white) leather inside and covered by a black card box on the outside. Both were fitted with Alexander Shorokhoff’s logo and the brand’s name.
The watch was placed on a faux leather cushion in ecru colour as well.
Manual and warranty are placed in the same compartment the cusion is inserted.
2 years as required by EU law, plus an exceptional after sales service
Two weeks ago I posted this:
First impression: WOW! The Alexander Shorokhoff SixtyThree is an absolute eye catcher. Its emerald-green curved dial with applied rosé gold Arabic numerals and Basilika hands in rosé gold is state of the art. The date window is enclosed in an inconspicuous rosé gold frame which shows Alexander Shorokhoff’s straightforward passion for detail.
Apropos passion for detail: if you take a magnifier and look onto the end of the seconds hand you identify it is a somehow stylized A (presumably for Alexander) and you learn that Alexander Shorokhoff is a stickler for details.
The SixtyThree is not meant to be a GADA watch, but it is not a typical „Avantgarde“ watch either. It is a classic watch perfectly featuring the watch design of the 1960s and wearable with both, suit and casual. The unique, oversized applied Arabic numerals— 20, 40, and 60 — complement the central hours, minutes, and seconds and make the dial a round thing.
There’s almost nothing to add. The Alexander Shorokhoff SixtyThree priced at €1299 for sure isn’t a watch at entry level, however for this money you get what other watches at much higher prices are unfortunately missing – a DNA.
The SixtyThree does not need to shy away from competition with higher priced watches. Especially case and dial are state of the art, and “art” gets a double meaning here, and can easily compete in fit and finish with my Wempe Tonneau or my Damasko DK 105.
The Alexander Shorokhoff SixtyThree serves a lot of requirements - it is a marvel of beauty, elegant, with a vintage touch that goes back to the 1960s but does not look exaggerated, which then transforms into an excellent executed contemporary timepiece, still classic and distinguished underlined by the emerald-green dial green.
You can wear it having a beer after work with your colleagues or a Glenlivet non chill-filtered Single Malt One Cask Whisky with your friends in the cookery lesson, you can join the Queens Garden Party at Buckingham Palace as well as the cinema around your corner; you can’t go wrong on most occasions with the SixtyThree on your wrist. However, I wouldn’t do gardening, bull riding or mud wrestling with it.
If you look for a dress watch ticking a lot of boxes, don’t look out for it, you found it.
Thank you for reading.
Comments are welcome.