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Dressy chrono 40mm - 42mm suggestions similar to IWC Portuguese or JLC Master Chrono ?

3K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  R332 
#1 · (Edited)
I am in the market for a classy stainless steel dress chronograph with a medium-sized case and a dark dial. I want a watch that can dress down with jeans and a sweater and dress up with a casual suit. It doesn't need to be a 'black tie' watch.

The IWC Portugieser Classic Chronograph 3903 and 3904 are nearly perfect but at 42 x 14.2mm thick it is a bit too bulky. The traditional Portugieser Chronograph 3714 is a beauty but the lack of date complication is a deal breaker for me.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph REF. 1538420 and REF.
1538171 are beautiful and well-sized at 40 x 12.6mm but the black dial version only comes with a bracelet and silver dial version looks a bit old fashion.

Can anyone offer some additional suggestions for sub-$12k watches in this style and size?

Two grail watches attached for styling inspiration!
 

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#9 ·
You can always get an aftermarket strap if you go with the black dial JLC
Good point or I could buy a black JLC strap and buckle, it just hurts to pay for the bracelet that I don't want.

The Blancpain Leman is nice but again it isn't on a leather strap.

The Speedy is obviously iconic but a bit too sporty for the look I am after, plus I want an automatic movement.

I love the Breguet Type XXI Flyback Chrono in Ti and might but one later on but like the Speedy it is heavy on sport and light on dressy.
 
#3 ·
Breguet Type XX or XXI are black dial models with excellent bracelets, they have a good history and they wear well with a croc strap. Navitimers come in various dial versions and are probably slimmer than the IWC. Another option is the GP 4956 range of watches-- 40mm, very good bracelet, excellent case design.
 
#5 ·
I'm a big fan of JLC and IWC, but when it comes to these 2 it's hard to beat the IWC Port Chrono. I've owned the Port in the Chrono & Auto and both are amazing watches. If it were me I'd make the sacrifice of the date and go with the IWC here. Seems like it fits exactly what you want not including the date.
 
#11 ·
I am still hunting for options.

A number of watches that have caught my attention are all too thick at 14mm +. This might sound like a silly detail but I own and have owned so many 15mm + watches and I simply want a break from that kind of bulkiness.

The Glashutte Original Senator Navigator is exactly the style and quality I am searching for but I tried it on and the 44mm case is too big. The new stainless Senator Chronograph Panorama Date looks great and is 42x14.6mm (better and worse!) with a very nice look but the blue Super-LumiNova is somewhat off-putting to my eye.

The Zenith El Primero Captain Chronograph with black dial is a very nice looking watch with ideal dimensions of 42x12.3mm but I haven't been able to see one in person. If I had to nitpick it would be the lack of lume (although not common in this classy segment) and the low(ish) price and poor resale value. I know that might sound like a pathetic comment comment but someone I can't imagine the finishing and wrist presence to feel as special as a more expensive piece from JLC, Vacheron, Rolex, etc.

Which watches am I overlooking? What if I stretched the budget to $15k (new or second hand)?
 
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